A snapshot of Mexican coffee production

Mexican coffee production is widespread, with more than 300,000 mostly small growers dedicated to its cultivation across 15 of Mexico’s 32 states, and despite the country being the 10th largest coffee producer in the world, the crop makes up only a small fraction of the country’s agricultural output.

Most of the coffee grown in Mexico is of the arabica kind, and more than a third is grown at high elevation which yields the higher quality, and more expensive, varieties of beans.  Much of it is grown in the shade, which adds to the quality of the coffee.

Quality and yield improving after ‘leaf rust’ blight

Coffee yields have recovered in recent years after a blight of ‘leaf rust’ devastated crops and caused production to fall by half between 2012 and 2016.  However, as the recovery emerges, regions most affected by the blight appear now to be producing some exceptional coffee beans with improving yields. In the 2019-2020 season, producers harvested about 3.7 million 60-kilogram (132 pound) bags, and that is forecast to increase to 3.9 million bags in the 2020-2021 season.  Although less acreage is expected to be planted, efforts have been made to increase the number of plants per hectare and to plant with more disease resistant trees.

Mexico’s coffee-growing regions

Mexico has four principal growing regions, and the coffees that emanate from each one carry distinct flavors and aromas, influenced by the local terrain, rich volcanic soils, the climate, and elevation.

Chiapas: distinct, highly sought-after coffee

Mexico’s southernmost state of Chiapas is the country’s biggest coffee producer, accounting for more than 40% of the annual crop.  The high rainfall in this region keeps the volcanic soils moist which is ideal for coffee growers.  The best arabica coffees from Chiapas carry a smooth, medium-bodied taste, with bright yet moderated acidity, and hints of cacao.  The aroma from these coffees is strong, often chocolatey, but they tend to be smooth and creamy on the palate and often have hints of a caramel-like sweetness to them.  Some coffee connoisseurs consider Chiapas’s coffee to be the among the best of all Mexican coffees.

Veracruz: dark and bold volcanic influences

The state of Veracruz situated along the shores of Mexico’s Gulf coast produces about a quarter of the country’s coffee. Veracruz’s topography climbs steeply from the coastal plains into an elevated mountainous terrain that provides ideal growing conditions for arabica coffee beans.  The coffee from this region is known for its distinct combination of being smooth and full-bodied, with a balanced acidity that carries undertones of nut and chocolate in its flavors.  The nutrient-rich, dark volcanic soils of this region imbue their influence into the taste of this region’s coffee.

Oaxaca: noticeably milder, and refreshing

Mexico’s state of Oaxaca, bordering Chiapas on the south side, Veracruz to the east, Puebla on north side, and descending from its central highlands to the shores of the Pacific Ocean in the west is also a terrain permeated with volcanic nutrients and plenty of moisture.  The Pluma region is the most renowned for coffee growing in Oaxaca, and beans here are grown at lower elevations that produces a range of distinct flavors.  Milder than most other Mexican coffees, Oaxacan beans carry a sweeter caramel overtone, a light citrus acidity that gives them a refreshing taste, a creamy body and, like many Mexican coffees, they also carry base notes of cacao.

Puebla: the dark horse of Mexico’s coffee regions

The Sierra Norte region in the state of Puebla, southeast of Mexico City, produces around 15% of the country’s coffee.  This highland region is the least well-known of Mexico’s coffee growing regions and coffees produced here are strongly influenced by the elevation and diversity of nutrients from this terrain that is watched over by Popocatepetl, Mexico’s most famous —and active— volcano.  The beans harvested from this region create a complex coffee flavor that includes notes of vanilla, citrus, nutmeg, and cacao.

Imported coffees continue to thrive in Mexico

Notwithstanding the wide availability of fine home-grown coffees, around half of the coffee consumed in Mexico is imported.

This is partly because Mexican producers focus on growing the finer quality arabica varieties, instead of the lower grade robusta beans employed for making the instant coffee that remains popular here, and is likely also driven by demand for specialty beans and brands among coffee drinkers in Mexico’s urban areas who can afford to be choosy.

Imported coffee brands, which include erstwhile names like Lavazza and Illy, elaborated using arabica beans —whether from Colombia, Costa Rica or even parts of Africa— are invariably more expensive than similar quality Mexican coffee.  A touch of malinchismo might be at play, or simply a yen for variety.

In essence, a Temazcal is a sweat lodge, although ancient cultures across Mesoamerica combined this with ceremonial rituals and medicinal herbs to aid purification (for example, after battles or sports events) and for healing, well-being, and childbirth.

The ancient practice of a Temazcal has become more accessible in recent times, primarily in places across Mexico’s central and southern highlands, Chiapas, and the Yucatán.  A Temazcal steam bath and ceremony can be readily experienced at some spas and boutique hotels across Mexico that offer ceremonies, as well in certain towns that specialize in sharing traditions of ancient indigenous cultures with their visitors—for example, Tepoztlán.

Traditional symbolism and ceremony

At its heart, the ceremony symbolizes death and rebirth with the Temazcal itself representing the womb of the mother.  A Temazcal ritual is more than a simple steam bath: it’s a ceremony that envelops physical, mental, and spiritual elements, led by a Temazcalero or Temazcalera who guide the proceedings according to ancient customs.

The Temazcal ceremony blends the physical benefits of a steam bath with ancient traditional rituals and medicinal herbs to aid purification and healing.  A Temazcal thus opens a space for personal reflection and contemplation, and some also use the practice as part of an effort to overcome some personal difficulty they may be passing through.

While some spas and hotels have a Temazcal dome installed at the property, most traditional Temazcal ceremonies are conducted elsewhere, and hotels that offer a Temazcal experience will work with their preferred Temazcaleros locally and arrange for their guests to be transported to and from the venue where the Temazcal ceremony takes place.

The Temazcal dome

The dome-shaped structure used to conduct the ritual will accommodate anywhere from a handful to a couple of dozen or more participants, depending on its size.  Typically, a stone or wood ledge provides seating for the participants, who sit around the inside perimeter of the dome during the ritual.  The exact specifications vary: a Temazcal situated at a fancy property may be constructed in stone, elegantly decked out, with steam piped-in instead of using hot stones; whereas the most rustic domes may be constructed on bare earth using bamboo and blankets with participants sitting on the ground. Most Temazcal domes strike a balance that blends tradition with practical comfort.

The rituals are always led by the Temazcalero, who acts as the guide for those taking part and conducts the proceedings using his or her own personal style according to the ancient traditions; this makes every ceremony as unique as the person guiding it. The guide will carry-in volcanic stones, heated on an outdoor fire, and settle them carefully into the middle of the dome.  (Colloquially the stones are called Abuelitos, a reference to this culture that honors the wisdom of the ancestors.)  The the doorway is sealed, and afterward the guide begins to pour a mixture of fresh water and herbs onto the hot stones creating the steam infusion that becomes the focal point of the ritual.

A holistic healing ceremony

As the ceremony unfolds, songs and prayers will be led by the Temazcalero, and individuals may be given an opportunity to speak about themselves if they wish to.

Herbs used in a Temazcal ritual —some of which may be medicinal— can include artemisa, eucalyptus, calendula, and echinacea.  Resin from the Copal tree may be placed onto the hot stones to release an aromatic fragrance into the dome.  Aloe may be offered to rub on the body for refreshment.

Each ceremony is unique, and every participant’s experience of the ceremony will be unique, too.  For some, a Temazcal is an enjoyable and entertaining steam bath; for others it can become an emotional experience that helps to release stress or anxiety as part of a healing exercise; a few may experience it as a very spiritual event that also encompasses purification and thanksgiving.

The benefits of participating in a Temazcal ceremony

People who participate in a Temazcal talk afterwards about the benefits they feel after the ritual, which include:

Cleansing and purification: the heat and steam cause your body to sweat profusely, helping to dispel toxins and cleanse your skin’s pores.

Help with your breathing and respiratory system: the mixture of steam and medicinal herbs can help to relieve symptoms associated with colds, bronchitis, asthma, and sinusitis.

Improved blood flow and muscular system: the ritual helps to improve your blood circulation aiding the flush-out of toxins, helping to address matters related to circulation issues, that in turn helps your muscular system including sprains, bruises, and muscle aches.

Helps to reduce stress and anxiety: The ritual intends to help your body and mind release stress and nervous tension.  People who have experienced a Temazcal also report being able to rest and sleep much better afterwards.

Tips for enjoying your Temazcal experience in Mexico

Taking part in a traditional Temazcal ritual is enjoyable, supports your well-being, and gives you direct insights into a unique and ancient Mesoamerican ceremonial culture.  Here are some tips to get the most from your Temazcal experience in Mexico:

Attending prepared: if you’re not used to a steam bath, then the experience can feel quite intense at first; if you’re accustomed to the heat and intensity of a steam room, the Temazcal ritual will add unfamiliar layers to an activity you’re already familiar with.  To get the most from the Temazcal ceremony, approach the event in a relaxed way and be prepared to go with the flow of the ritual.  If you have any medical conditions that may be aggravated by the steam bath and herbs, talk with your guide beforehand for advice.

Holistic healing: every Temazcal ritual is unique; the primary physical intention is to sweat, eliminate toxins from the body, and promote blood circulation; although ceremonies also encapsulate elements of mind and spirit which participants may find beneficial to their overall wellbeing.

Dressing for a Temazcal: a light bathing suit is ideal for attending a Temazcal ceremony; you want to leave as much of your skin exposed to the air as practical.  Men can wear bathing suit shorts; women may wear a bathing suit, sarongs, or light beach dresses.  Shoes are not worn inside the dome: sandals are ideal footwear when attending a Temazcal ceremony, and some people choose to go in barefoot.

Food and drink: attend the ceremony well hydrated by drinking plenty of fresh water in the hours leading up to the event, but don’t eat too much and don’t drink alcohol beforehand.  A Temazcal can become an uncomfortable experience on a full stomach, and/or if you are inebriated.

Follow your guide’s instructions: the guide will lead you through the Temazcal rituals which are based on ancient Mesoamerican traditions.  The guide will also be there to assist you should you not feel well, or if you need to leave the dome.

Don’t panic: the experience inside the dome can become quite intense through a combination of the enclosed space, the proximity of others sitting next to you, the hot steam mixed with medicinal herbs, and the guide’s songs and prayers.  If you begin to feel unwell, don’t panic; try to relax, regulate your breathing with a tranquil rhythm, and go with the flow of ceremony.

If you need to leave the ritual: the guide will usually brief participants on what to do in the event you feel the need to leave at once; don’t be afraid to communicate clearly with others inside the dome and with the guide so that you can leave quickly and safely if you need to.

Don’t shy away from the cold shower: it’s traditional to take a cold shower or have cold water poured over you when you leave the sultry, vapor-filled, dome.  This shock-effect (your body will be very hot and sweating) helps to raise your energy levels and improves your body’s immune system.  The cold water treatment is optional and recommended if your general health is good enough to take the shock.

Comitan and neighboring San Cristobal de las Casas and Tuxtla Gutierrez are in the state of Chiapas, a region east of Oaxaca and south of Villahermosa and which is, without question, among Mexico’s most stunning scenic areas; mostly wild and rugged, it is rich in indigenous life and culture.

Chiapas’ thickly wooded jungles, mountains and valleys together with its traditional cultures and indigenous roots have kept its look, feel and style very distinct from the rest of Mexico. Although there are some cities, symbols and events here which reveal the area’s colonial heritage, the population remains close to its indigenous roots. Life is still lived according to custom and ritual.

Many argue that the natural beauty of this area has no parallel in Mexico: deep green forested valleys, awesome waterfalls and high mountains with deep canyons and gorges, a colossal wealth of flora and fauna and glorious lakes certainly make this area one of Mexico’s most unspoiled natural paradises.

Away from the larger towns, Spanish is a second language; people here still retain their indigenous culture and tongue. You’ll see a lot of indigenous people going about their everyday life, often wearing their traditional dress. It’s important to remember that the people who live here are extremely sensitive to having their photograph taken, so exercise caution in this respect when you visit. See Practical Information for more details.

Comitan de Dominguez is its full name, although it’s most often referred to as just Comitan (koh-mee-TAN’), was first settled around 1527 by the Spanish, and is still largely undiscovered by most foreign visitors to Mexico’s Chiapas region, who traditionally arrive and explore the region from San Cristobal de las Casas, 88km (55 miles) north of here.

This has been partly due to the lack of road and tourism infrastructure, although in the last few years progress has been made in both areas and today Comitan is a good base to explore some of Chiapas’ most breathtaking natural attractions.

The colonial city is made up of nine neighborhoods; an important reference to the city’s ancient name: Balun Canun, which means place of the nine stars. The houses are simple but picturesque, with their painted wood doors, interior courtyard gardens and colonial balconies. The streets themselves are well kept and immaculately clean, too.

Comitan is the last significant place before Mexico’s southern border gives way to the Usumacinta River and Guatemala just beyond. Comitan offers its visitors a number of attractive sights inside the city itself, including the beautiful neighborhood of San Caralampio. See Key Attractions for more details.

Although San Cristobal de las Casas is still the epicenter of tourist activity in Chiapas, Comitan has evolved and improved its tourism services, now making it an ideal place to spend a couple of days exploring the southern edge of Chiapas as well as the attractions along Mexico’s southern border with Guatemala, most within an hour’s drive from here.

Key Attractions

Colonial Center

Comitan’s main plaza (also known as the Zocalo) is an attractive, multi-level mix of benches, trees and art sculptures; there is also a fountain on west side. Immediately off the main square you’ll find Church of Santo Domingo, the Casa de la Cultura (House of Culture) as well as the city’s main municipal building. It’s worth wandering around here and discovering the small shops and boutiques, many selling locally crafted items.

Iglesia de Santo Domingo

This church, situated on the main plaza, was built during the 16th and 17th centuries; its attractions include a neoclassical facade and block tower that reflect Mudejar art. Inside the church is a single level, with two chapels added during later periods. The main one—made of marble —was installed in 1956 to mark the church’s 400th anniversary.

San Caralampio

The picturesque neighborhood of San Caralampio, three blocks northwest of the main plaza is a true delight. See Photo Gallery.

Just off its central square featuring trees and a bandstand is the Temple of San Caralampio, built in 1852 to commemorate its patron saint following a cholera epidemic that devastated the local population of Comitan during the 19th century.

Museums in Comitan

Museum of Dr. Belisario Dominguez – The former home of the Doctor/Martyr after which the town was named can be found one block southeast of the main plaza. This is a typical 19th century house with delightful balconies and gardens which complement the historic architecture of the building. Dr. Belisario was an outspoken senator during the presidency of Victoriano Huerta. After he spoke out against Huerta’s record of sponsoring political murders, he was himself murdered. The house has six rooms which give an insight into the life and times of Dr Belisario Dominguez.

Casa de la Cultura (House of Culture), on the southeast corner of the main plaza has a small exhibition of local history and culture, and by walking through it you connect to the Museo Arqueológico de Comitan (Archaeology Museum), which keeps artifacts from the area’s local archaeology centers.

To see some paintings created by some of Mexico’s leading artists, including Rufino Tamayo, visit the Museo de Arte Hermila Dominguez Castellanos, two blocks southeast of the main plaza; Admirers of fine art should also visit the nearby Museo Parador de Santa Maria. See Attractions Close by to Comitan, below.

Attractions Close-by Comitan

Museo Parador de Santa Maria – An ex-hacienda that was built in the 19th century and left empty after the revolution, suffering serious decay. The property was acquired privately and meticulously restored to its early splendor; today it’s a restful hotel/parador, restaurant and museum which keeps some very fine sacred art and sculptures dated between the 16th and 19th centuries (some images of these can be seen in the photo gallery). Just 28km (17 miles) from Comitan, this museum/hotel is surrounded by unspoiled countryside and provides an excellent place to rest, eat and enjoy some fine art. The owners of the property grow their own organic coffee which is served on the premises and can also be purchased to take away.

Archaeological Areas – Tenam Puente and Chinkultic are short drives away – see the respective guides on Mexperience by clicking the green links above.

Lagos de Montebello – a region of lakes in southern Mexico, this natural attraction is just one hour from Comitan. There are over 50 lakes in the area, most of them reflect deep turquoise blue and green. Don’t miss this spectacular area when you visit Comitan. Mexperience has published a Complete Guide to Lagos de Montebello as part of our Mexico’s Great Outdoors Section.

Amatenango del Valle – On the highway between here and San Cristobal de las Casas is Amatenango del Valle: it’s a small hamlet that is famous for its local potters and pottery. The pottery here is still fired in the traditional way: by building a wood fire around the pieces, not in a kiln. Be sure to stop and see the array of pottery, and more recently, “animalitos” (little animals) on offer (although some of the animal pieces can be quite large, too). Prices are very cheap by western standards; some pieces are fragile, but they will wrap them carefully for you. Be sure to stop and buy. See the Picture Gallery for Amatenango del Valle.

Getting There & Around

By Air – The closest airport to Comitan is at Tuxtla Gutierrez, the state capital. You can fly to Tuxtla Gutierrez from Mexico City. For detailed information about flights and flying, see the Mexperience guide to Air Travel in Mexico.

By Bus – You can travel to Tuxtla Gutierrez on a luxury bus from Mexico City—the trip takes around 10 hours. From there, take a local bus direct to Comitan or to San Cristobal de las Casas and connect from there. The bus you take from Tuxtla Gutierrez may stop at San Cristobal anyway—check locally. For detailed information about bus transportation read the Mexperience guide to Bus Travel in Mexico.

By Car – Driving to Comitan from Tuxtla Gutierrez is pretty efficient now, especially as half the journey (to San Cristobal de las Casas) can be done on a high speed toll road. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads on Mexperience and further advice about driving in Chiapas in the Practical Information, below.

Car Rental – To explore Mexico’s colonial towns and cities, consider renting a car for your visit. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn what you need to know about car rental in Mexico and connect to the Mexperience Travel Center to reserve your Rental Car.

Taxis – Taxis are plentiful in Comitan. Taxi travel is very affordable in Mexico in comparison to the USA, Canada and Europe, and so provides a viable means of public transportation in Mexico. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; taxi hotel rates are usually higher than cabs you hail off the street. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage in your negotiations with local taxi drivers. For detailed information, read the Mexperience guide to Taxi Travel in Mexico

Comitán Essentials

Telephone: Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found in the downtown area of Comitan, with several banks and ATMs right off the main plaza. For detailed information about exchanging and managing your money, read the Mexperience guide to Money in Mexico.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Internet Access: Internet cafes can be easily found in towns and cities across Mexico and WiFi is increasingly commonplace–from cafes, shops, hotels, and some cities even offer free WiFi in some defined public spaces.

Driving in Chiapas – Safety Advice

If you are driving independently in this region, using a rental car or your own vehicle, it’s important to follow some special advice.

It’s best to keep off all highways after dark, unless you know them well, have good local knowledge and a good reason to travel at night.

The highway from San Cristobal to Palenque (Highway 199) must NOT be traveled on after dark. This road cuts through some extremely remote territory including, in the latter stages, sweltering jungle.

The above also applies to Highway 307 between Palenque and Bonampak / Yaxchilan. Most travelers join others and see these places as part of an organized tour; however if you drive there yourself, you should consider joining the convoy of tours which leave early in the morning and get back to Palenque before dusk.

Military Checkpoints: Expect to pass through at least one, but probably several of these on your road trip through Chiapas. Don’t be alarmed, the soldiers may or may not check your car’s trunk; they are polite, respectful and can even provide local advice and directions if you need them.
See Also: Military Checkpoints in Mexico

Special Note About Photography: The people in this region do not, as a rule, like photographs taken of them and the things they own. In some of the surrounding villages, it is prohibited to take photographs all together, and those who do not comply can face equipment confiscation, fines and even temporary detention. Ask before you take photographs of people and their possessions; you may be asked to pay a small fee for the privilege. See Also: Photography Etiquette in Mexico.

What to Buy in Comitan de Dominguez

Amatenango del Valle is a small hamlet famous for its local potters and pottery. The pottery here is still fired in the traditional way: by building a wood fire around the pieces and not in a kiln. Make sure you stop and see the array of pottery, and more recently, “animalitos” (little animals) on offer (although some of the animal pieces can be quite large too). Prices are completely affordable by western standards; some pieces are fragile, but they will wrap them carefully for you. Be sure to stop and buy; you’ll pick up some fabulous, unique and hand crafted pottery and make a significant contribution to the local indigenous communities.

Local Climate

At an altitude of nearly 1,670 meters (5,500 feet) above sea level, Comitan enjoys a temperate climate and clean, mountain air. Evenings can be cool, as can winter months (Dec-Feb), so pack some warmer clothes in case the weather turns chilly. Rain can also be a feature, so pack a waterproof overcoat and hat.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

About The Lakes of Montebello

Less than an hour’s drive from Comitan, on the border with Guatemala, are the Lagos de Montebello (Lakes of Montebello).

There are over 50 lakes here, one of which is half in Mexican territory and half in Guatemalan territory; around eight of the lakes are easily accessible via some roads and lots of vehicle tracks that run through the forest surrounding the lakes.

At the western edge of this lake district you’ll find the impressive and worth-while Mayan Ruins of Chinkultic: see the Mexperience Guide and Photo Gallery for details.

You can arrange a tour of the lakes from Comitan or (further away from here) San Cristobal de las Casas, although if you have a rental car, you can explore this area most effectively, take your time in the areas you want to see more of and travel at your preferred pace.

The lakes themselves are well worth experiencing; they all reflect turquoise blues and greens, and coupled with the scenic backdrop of the surrounding mountains and forests, the area is great for a whole day’s exploration.

You can bring your own food and drink, or eat locally at one of the many food stalls, cafes and restaurants dotted around the main lakes.

Small boats and makeshift rafts (made from tree trunks tied together) are available for hire at most of the larger lakes, in case you want to go out on the water and get a view from the lakes themselves. Ask locally for details and negotiate your price as fees are not fixed.

It’s an easy day-trip from Comitan, although if you’re not staying in Comitan, you may want to consider staying there or at nearby Museo Parador Santa Maria to really have enough time to enjoy the lakes fully during daylight hours and make your journey less tiring.

You are allowed to bathe in the lakes, so if you like swimming in natural waters, pack your swimming gear, although changing facilities are limited, so you’ll have to ‘rough it’ in that respect.

If you’re traveling in this area, the Lakes of Montebello are well worth a day trip. The lakes have a calm, serene and relaxing atmosphere; the air is sweet and pure, and even during busy times, because of the expanse of the area, you’ll always be able to find a quiet corner to just contemplate, surrounded by some of nature’s most wonderful creations.

Look through our picture gallery to get a taste of what is waiting for you… and then come here and experience this natural paradise for yourself!

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Key Attractions

The Principal Lakes

The first group of lakes as you enter the national park are known as the Lagunas de Colores (Lakes of Colors) owing to the different hues of green and blue they reflect.

The first lake is Laguna Agua Tinta (Tinted Water Lake); followed by Laguna Esmeralda (Emerald lake) and Laguna Encantada (Enchanted Lake)— they are separated by the road than runs past them. There is parking besides these so it’s easy to stop and look around if you’re traveling by car. The largest lake in this group is Lago Bosque Azul (Blue Forest Lake) where you can also find a couple of food stalls and souvenir stands.

Another group of lakes, Cinco Lagunas (Five Lakes) includes Lago de Montebello (one of the largest) La Cañada, Laguna Pojoj and Laguna Tziscao—the largest lake, the southern end of which is in Guatemala. Take the time to See our Photo Gallery of the Lakes of Montebello.

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Getting There & Around

By Air – The closest main town to the lakes is Comitan, and the nearest airports to Comitan are Tuxtla Gutierrez and Tapachula. You can fly to Tuxtla Gutierrez and Tapachula from Mexico City. For detailed information about flights and flying, see the Mexperience guide to Air Travel in Mexico.

Airport Transfers: If you’re arriving in Mexico by airplane, you can book your airport transfer in advance. Airport Transfer services are available from all of Mexico’s key airports and offer the choice of either a Standard or VIP service level. Standard shuttles will transport up to ten people and their baggage in a modern and comfortable surburban van to/from local hotels; the VIP service provides transportation exclusively for your party, taking you and your belongings directly to/from your local hotel. Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for details and to reserve your Airport Transfer.

By Bus – You can travel to Tuxtla Gutierrez on a luxury bus from Mexico City—the trip takes around 12-14 hours. From there take a local bus direct to Comitan or to San Cristobal de las Casas and connect from there. The bus you take from Tuxtla Gutierrez may stop at San Cristobal anyway—check locally. For detailed information about bus transportation read the Mexperience guide to Bus Travel in Mexico.

By Car – Driving to Comitan from Tuxtla Gutierrez is pretty efficient now, especially as half the journey (to San Cristobal de las Casas) can be done on a high speed toll road. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads. To get to Montebello from Comitan, follow highway 190 for about 9 miles (15 km), turning east at the signpost; this is before you get to the town of La Trinitaria. This road passes the Maya Ruins of Chinkultic and later enters the forest of the National Park of the Lakes of Montebello (Parque Nacional Lagunas de Montebello).

Car Rental – To explore this region properly, consider renting a car for your visit; you can rent a car from Tuxtla Gutierrez or Tapachula. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn what you need to know about car rental in Mexico and connect to the Mexperience Travel Center to reserve your Rental Car.

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Practical Information

Opening Days & Times: The national park is best experienced during daylight hours. Some places in the park rent rustic cabins for overnight stays there—although they are very basic and rudimentary. There are also some campsites here, if you want to camp in the park; ask locally for current details.

Ideal Clothing & Footwear: You’ll need a good, comfortable pair of walking shoes with a non-slip sole; if you have a good pair of walking boots, all the better. Insect repellent is also very useful as these areas are located in the jungle. See Local Climate, below.

Car Rental Recommended: To experience the lake district at your own pace with the freedom and independence to see precisely what you want, the best advice is to rent a car from Tuxtla Guterrez or Tapachula. Public transport is available but very scarce around here.

Telephone: Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found in the downtown area of Comitan, with several banks and ATMs right off the main plaza. ATMs are hard to find outside of the main towns, so carry enough cash for your journey. For detailed information about exchanging and managing your money, read the Mexperience guide to Money in Mexico.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Swimming and Bathing: You are allowed to swim at all of these lakes, so bring your swim gear if you want to. There are no lifeguards on duty – so take care swimming and keep a watchful eye on your children when they are in the water also; some of these lakes are very deep – up to 150 meters (500 feet) in places.

Fishing: Fishing is NOT permitted at any of the lakes as they are all situated within the habitat of the protected National Park.

Boats: You can rent skiffs and row-boats locally; some row boats are accompanied by a hired oarsman (pay by the hour) for trips across the larger lakes. Motorized boats, jet skis, etc are NOT permitted on any of the lakes in the National Park.

Vantage Points: The roads through the national park weave around the lakes and forest and at times offer excellent vantage points – some are signposted and have car lay-bys; others are not and you just need to park somewhere sensible to get out and enjoy the views.

Driving Safety: If you are going to be driving independently in this area, read the practical information about Driving in Chiapas on the guide to Comitan.

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Nearby Places & Attractions

Major Cities: Mexico City (Closest)

Colonial Cities: Comitan, Tuxtla Gutierrez, San Cristobal de las Casas, Villahermosa, Oaxaca

Nearest Beaches/ Resorts: Cancun, Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, Isla Mujeres

Nearest Archaeological Sites: Palenque, Tenam Puente, Yaxchilan, Bonampak, Chinkultic

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Local Climate

The local climate is similar to nearby Comitan. The lake district enjoys a temperate climate and clean, fresh mountain air. Evenings can be cool, as can winter months, so pack some warm clothes for such times. Rain can also be a feature, so pack a waterproof jacket.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

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About Sumidero Canyon

A few miles east of Tuxtla Gutierrez is the spectacular Cañon Sumidero, (Sumidero Canyon) created by the mighty Rio Grijalva which runs northwards through it.

Before the completion of the dam here, the canyon’s walls were even higher than they are now. Before the dam, the waters running through it were not navigable, even for the most skilled boatmen.

Once the river was dammed, the water levels rose dramatically, creating an extremely deep and serene river which tour boats and taxi boats navigate with ease. The Chicoasen hydroelectric dam, opened in 1981, is today one of Mexico’s most important sources of electric power.

Travel to one of the Miradores (vantage points) if you want to get a bird’s-eye view of the canyon; but if you really want to experience it properly, take a boat ride. The most common embarkation point is at Chiapa de Corzo, a short drive from Tuxtla Gutierrez.

The 2-3 hour round trip on the boat will take you on a spectacular journey through the canyon, with some of the walls towering 2,500 feet above you. The wildlife on display is spectacular, and your boat may take you on a tour past one or two caves in the area.

A new Ecological Park has been opened inside the canyon. The only way to get to the park is to take a boat there. The park offers a range of activity-based eco-attractions including the opportunity to visit the wildlife sanctuary, see local flora and fauna as well as a number of physical and sporting activities such as kayaking, mountain biking, abseiling, zip-line, swimming and more. See Key Attractions for full details and photo gallery.

The Sumidero Canyon is a truly spectacular experience which should not be missed when you are traveling in this area.

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Key Attractions

The River Tour

The river journey begins near Chiapa de Corzo at the Cauhuare embarkation point. Depending on the time of year (school vacation times are busier) you may have to line up to wait for a boat, or you may have to wait around for a short while until enough people arrive to fill up a boat at quieter times. In either case, the wait is never too long. You should buy your tickets from the counter near the entrance before proceeding to the pier. The boats operate in daylight hours, with the first boat leaving around 8 a.m. and the last around 4:30 p.m.

You should consider a visit to the Ecological Park (see below) – be sure to let the boatman know if you want to disembark there; although a stop is almost certain these days, as the park’s attractions become better known and word spreads about it.

The boat ride could take as long as three hours, so if you are not planning a stop at the Ecological Park, take plenty of drinking water. Also take sun screen and a hat if it’s hot (insect repellent may also be useful).

The distance from Chiapa de Corzo to the hydroelectric dam is around 23 miles (35 km). As you progress through the canyon, you’ll start to see the walls towering above you: at their highest point, from the surface of the water you will look up at walls a staggering 2,640 feet (800 m) high.

There are some caves and interesting rock formations that the boatman will highlight on the trip. One of the most interesting is the “Christmas Tree”, which is actually created by moss hanging on one of the rock faces. If you visit during the rainy season, you will be able to see how the water trickles down the ‘branches’ of the tree!

There’s plenty of wildlife, both flora and fauna, to admire during the trip. Herons, vultures, egrets, kingfishers and perhaps a few crocodiles which also live on the river!

The river opens out at the end of the journey, just before the dam. The boat will take up you to the closest point allowed by the floating barriers and turn around. It is here where the river is deepest: the water underneath you reaches a depths of over 860 feet (260 m).

On the way back, the boat will stop at the Ecological Park (see below) to drop off any passengers spending the day there and to pick up people returning to Chiapa de Corzo.

Bring your camera. Although it’s hard to capture the sheer enormity of the canyon in still pictures from the water’s surface, some people bring video cameras to try and capture the perspective. To really enjoy this natural wonder, you simply have to be there and experience it in person.

See Also: Sumidero Canyon Photo Gallery on Mexperience

Canyon Sumidero Ecological Park (NOW CLOSED)

Local Tours

Mexperience offers access to local tours and activities in and around Mexico’s colonial cities and areas of outstanding natural beauty—including the Sumidero Canyon. Tours and activities are organized and run by well-established, professional and fully-insured operators. You can search for tours by location or category and make reservations online or by telephone. Buying tours in advance is more convenient and secure, and your spaces on the tour are guaranteed.

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Getting There & Around

Getting There

Sumidero Canyon is near Tuxtla Gutierrez; the most popular and best embarkation point is nearby Chiapa de Corzo. The only way to get to the Eco Park is to take a boat ride from Chiapa de Corzo—the boat will drop you off at the park en route through the canyon and pick you up when you’re ready to return.

Getting To Tuxtla Gutierrez (for Chiapa de Corzo / Canyon Sumidero)

By Air – You can get to and from Tuxtla Gutierrez from Mexico City, Oaxaca, Villahermosa, Veracruz, Merida and Cancun using the main airport (Francisco Sarabia / Teran). There is a smaller airport, only used in the summer as it’s high up in the hills and gets fog-bound in the winter. For detailed information about flights and flying, see the Mexperience guide to Air Travel in Mexico.

Airport Transfers: If you’re arriving in Mexico by airplane, you can book your airport transfer in advance. Airport Transfer services are available from all of Mexico’s key airports and offer the choice of either a Standard or VIP service level. Standard shuttles will transport up to ten people and their baggage in a modern and comfortable surburban van to/from local hotels; the VIP service provides transportation exclusively for your party, taking you and your belongings directly to/from your local hotel. Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for details and to reserve your Airport Transfer.

By Bus – Regular long distance buses make the journey from Mexico City to Tuxtla Gutierrez daily; the journey takes 15 hours. Regional buses travel daily and frequently from Villahermosa, Campeche, Merida and Cancun to and from Tuxtla Gutierrez. For detailed information about bus transportation read the Mexperience guide to Bus Travel in Mexico.

By Car – There are now fast roads connecting Chiapas’ capital city to Merida, Cancun, Oaxaca, Mexico City. The drive is a long one from Mexico City, but you’ll be rewarded by some stunning scenery. Most people tend to fly to the region and rent a car locally, which is more sensible unless you have a specific reason for driving to Chiapas. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads on Mexperience.

Car Rental – To explore Mexico’s colonial towns and cities, consider renting a car for your visit. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn what you need to know about car rental in Mexico and connect to the Mexperience Travel Center to reserve your Rental Car.

Getting To Chiapa de Corzo / Embarkation Point

From the Airport – The main airport is about 5 miles south of Tuxtla Gutierrez, and Chiapa de Corzo is about 5 miles (11 km) from there. Taxis are available into town and will also take you directly to Chiapa de Corzo if you are using it as your base. You can also rent a car from the airport. See Car Rental, above.

Local Buses – Local buses make the trip regularly from Tuxtla Gutierrez to Chiapa de Corzo and are very inexpensive.

Taxis – Local taxis are widely available and will take you the 11 km road trip to Chiapa de Corzo; agree your price before you get in; prices are reasonable. Taxi travel is very affordable in Mexico, in comparison to the USA, Canada and Europe, and so provides a viable means of public transportation in Mexico. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; taxi hotel rates are usually higher than cabs you hail off the street. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage in your negotiations with local taxi drivers. For detailed information, read the Mexperience guide to Taxi Travel in Mexico.

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Guided Tours and Excursions

A number of local tour operators sell pre-packaged tours that include Chiapa de Corzo, the Sumidero Canyon and the Ecological Park. You can arrange a guided tour using Mexperience. Buying tours in advance is more convenient and secure, and your spaces on the tour are guaranteed.

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Practical Information

Telephone:Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found in Tuxtla Gutierrez and Chiapa de Corzo; there are no currency ATM services at the Ecological Park. For detailed information about exchanging and managing your money, read the Mexperience guide to Money in Mexico.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Internet Access: Internet cafes are commonplace in nearby Tuxtla Gutierrez; new ones open and old ones close all the time, but you won’t have to look too hard to find one downtown and in the main tourist areas.

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What to Buy in Sumidero Canyon

Souvenirs are available at the embarkation point and there is a fine souvenir and clothing shop at the Eco Park inside the canyon. See Key Attractions.

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Local Climate

The high altitude and mountainous terrain make the climate in this area highly variable. It can get quite warm in the summer and cold in the winter. Rains can come at any time, but you will also need to pack sunscreen and a hat to guard against the sun here. When you pack for Chiapas, pack clothes for all weathers; in the winter months you will need to ensure you pack a stock of warm and waterproof clothes.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

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About The Waterfalls

The state of Chiapas, in southern Mexico, is one of the country’s most attractive areas of outstanding natural beauty, and a large part of its attraction is the abundance of wilderness engulfed by a constant carpet of greens and turquoises which are a reflection of the rich fertile earth here.

Lakes (like the Lakes of Montebello) and rivers are everywhere: the climate is tropical and the rains that help to keep these lands fertile also create some spectacular water features that roll over and down into deep valleys and gorges. The result is a series of inspiring waterfalls; many of which are easily accessible thanks to local co-operative groups which have created roads, pathways and trails leading into the jungles where some of these natural wonders hide away.

Three Waterfalls

This guide introduces you to three of the most impressive waterfalls in Chiapas, which are close enough to other destinations and places of interest so they may be easily included as part of a travel itinerary when you’re visiting the area.

Misol-Ha (Near Palenque) – named after the river Misol-Ha, the water falls nearly 120 feet into a refreshing pool below.

Agua Azul (Near Palenque) – The turquoise-blue waters of this waterfall and river are one of the state’s most beautiful and famous natural attractions.

El Chiflon (Near Comitan) – Probably the most remote of the three, although worth every kilometer, this is a multi-stage waterfall featuring a stunning “angels wings” feature.

All of the waterfalls are also bathing centers: bring your swimming gear and a towel.  Be sure to see our Picture Galleries that offer you a visual glimpse into these wonderful natural habitats.

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The Waterfalls

• • Misol-Ha
  • Agua Azul
  • El Chiflon

Misol-Ha

River Misol-Ha (meaning “Streaming Water”), in the “Chol” tribe area of Chiapas, creates one of the state’s most wonderful natural sights as the river glides off the edge of a cliff and some 120 feet (35 m) down into a deep pool of water surrounded by lush vegetation.

The water at the foot of the waterfall is deep (scuba divers have reported depths of 45 feet), and there are signs to warn visitors of this. You should only swim here if you are a good swimmer, and children should be watched carefully. The water is deliciously refreshing.

A scuba diver who has been in the the pool has told us that it is cone-shaped and at the very center is an opening about 6 feet in diameter that is possibly a subterranean waterway which connects to somewhere further downstream.

A small walkway will take you behind the water curtain created by the waterfall. There are some caves behind, which local people (waiting nearby) will give you a guided tour of in return for a small tip.

Also See: Photo Gallery for Misol-Ha

Agua Azul

Rio Xumul-Ha (meaning River of Blue Water, or in Spanish, Agua Azul) features a series of torrential cascades and fast flowing waters rolling down a limestone ridge to form pools and small streams.

The limestone bed gives the waters here a turquoise-blue effect: although during the rainy season, silt turns the waters brown, so you have to time your journey right if you want to see the water blue— in which case, avoid June – October.

When you arrive at the river (see below Getting There & Around), you will be greeted by a gauntlet of market stalls. Walking past these and about half a mile up the path, things return to a more natural state. On the way back, the market stalls are an ideal place to browse and buy. Local people make their living by trading here and they are the same communities which created the access routes to this natural wonder.

The river is surrounded by breath-taking green valleys and as you leave the area on the road upwards, you can look left into the valley below and see the river winding through it. If it’s the rainy season (June through October), the waters are usually brown, otherwise, the eye-dazzling turquoise-blue will be immediately apparent.

During the weekends, this area becomes packed with visitors and local people who come here to swim and relax: it’s a great place to do that! If you want to be surrounded by less people, come during the week and, if your schedule permits, off-season (that is, when schools are in session).

The waters here can be deceptive, so caution is advised when bathing. Some areas are plainly safe to bathe in, and you’ll often see other people bathing in them. Some areas are clearly dangerous and signposted: “the liquidizer”, for example, where a rush of water drops suddenly to create an enormous swirling undercurrent. Not all places may look dangerous, so take care, and if you have children with you, supervise them and be sure they don’t stray away from safe bathing waters. People have been known to drown here, but with sensible precautions and some common sense, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t enjoy bathing in this natural wonder.

Also See: Photo Gallery for Agua Azul

El Chiflon

About 30 minutes-drive from the colonial city of Comitan is El Chiflon, a waterfall that seemingly protrudes from the mountainside as you drive towards it and has the shape of angels’ wings.

There is an Eco Center at the entrance to the Chiflon reserve, and a paved walkway that hugs the edge of the river. There are small huts and BBQ areas where people bring their own food to enjoy picnics and a day out by the water. The river has several pools and calm stretches, so bathing is possible and the water isn’t too deep—watch out for steeper areas though, where the water does become more fierce.

Your climb up to the top of the pathway will be rewarded with some great views of the waterfall itself. The angels’ wings are best viewed from a distance. Close-up you can see what is called the “bride’s train” – see the photo gallery to understand why.

If you want to to get closer to the main waterfall, you’ll have to do some more climbing, although the pathway has steps built into it and there are rest-stops on the way. Once at the top, there are two main vantage points: the closest is built upon a natural rock and you can expect to get wet when you get that close, although the views are quite spectacular and if the day is warm, it will provide a refreshing shower to cool you down in the jungle heat.

Also See: Photo Gallery for El Chiflon.

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Getting There & Around

Tours – Many local tour operators include these waterfalls as part of a locally arranged itinerary. Check with local agents for current details in San Cristobaland Palenque.

Misol-Ha – The waterfall is 15 miles (25 km) south of Palenque, about a mile (2 km) off Highway 199 (which connects San Cristobal de las Casas and Palenque). The area is sign-posted on the main road.

Agua Azul – There is a sign-posted turn off the main highway between Palenque and Ocosingo on Highway 199.  Agua Azul is about 22 miles (35 km) south of Palenque.

El Chiflon – El Chiflon waterfall is near the archaeological center of Tenam Puente – just south east of Comitan

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Practical Information

Opening Days & Times: Most Eco Centers around the waterfalls are owned and managed by local communities of ejidatarios (commons land-owners). They are normally open during daylight hours and some have rustic cabins that may be rented for overnight stays.

Best Times to See The Falls: The rainy season is between May and September each year and it’s then that the waters are at their fullest. However, the rains during this period stir the silt from the river beds and the beautiful hues of blue, green and turquoise reflected in the waters may not be seen (the water may be river brown after the heaviest downpours). The falls are spectacular all-year round as Chiapas is in the sub-tropics. If you want to experience the waters at their fullest, go in the rainy season; if you want to see the picturesque colors, visit in the ‘dry’ season.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Ideal Clothing & Footwear: You’ll need a good, comfortable pair of walking shoes with a non-slip sole. If you have a good pair of walking boots, all the better.  Insect repellent is also very useful as these areas are located in the jungle. See Local Climate, below.

Swimming and Bathing: You are allowed to swim at all of these waterfalls, so bring your swim gear if you want to. Take heed of the advice regarding dangerous areas: swim only where it is obviously safe and you see others (especially locals) swimming safely.

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Nearby Places & Attractions

Major Cities: Mexico City (Closest)

Colonial Cities: Villahermosa, San Cristobal de las Casas, Comitan, Tuxtla Gutierrez, Oaxaca

Nearest Beaches / Resorts: Cancun, Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, Isla Mujeres

Nearest Archaeological Sites: Palenque, Tenam Puente, Yaxchilan, Bonampak, Chinkultic

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Local Climate

The local climate is the same as that for Palenque: jungle weather and therefore extremely hot and humid. Dress in light clothes that enable your skin to breathe. Bring sun screen, insect repellent and a hat. Carry plenty of water and stay well-hydrated at all times.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

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San Cristobal de las Casas and neighboring Tuxtla Gutierrez and Comitan are in the state of Chiapas, a region east of Oaxaca and south of Villahermosa and which is, without question, Mexico’s most stunning scenic area; mostly wild and rugged, it is rich in indigenous life and culture.

Chiapas’s thickly wooded jungles, mountains and valleys, together with its traditional cultures and indigenous roots have kept its look, feel and style very distinct from the rest of Mexico.

Although there are some cities, symbols and events here which reveal the area’s colonial heritage, the population is still well established within its indigenous roots. Local people continue to live their lives here in accordance with certain customs and rituals.

Many argue that the natural beauty of this area has no parallel in Mexico; deep green forested valleys, awesome waterfalls and high mountains with deep canyons and gorges, a colossal wealth of flora, fauna and wildlife and glorious lakes make this area one of Mexico’s most awesome natural habitats.

Away from the larger towns, Spanish is a second language; local people have stayed true to their indigenous cultures and tongue. When you visit, you’ll see indigenous people going about their everyday life, often wearing their traditional dress.

San Cristobal de las Casas (“Sahn-Kris-toh-bahl-de-lahs-cahsas”) was once the state capital of Chiapas, when the state was under Guatemalan rule; it may still have been but for its reluctance at first to join union with Mexico; in 1892 it fell out of favor with the powers of the day and the capital was moved to neighboring Tuxtla Gutierrez.

San Cristobal de las Casas shares a similar history to that of indigenous Patzcuaro; deriving part of its name from Bartolome de la Casas, the bishop sent here by the Spaniards to rebuild bridges with the indigenous local population. Like Vasco de Quiroga in Patzcuaro, de las Casas endeared himself to the local population by promoting self-sufficiency and education.

San Cristobal is characterized by its peaceful and welcoming atmosphere, coupled with an artistic and bohemian flair which attracts many European visitors, especially.

The colonial streets and alleyways lined with red-roof tiles and white-washed walls beg wanderers to explore and discover the nooks and crannies; alleyways open up into picturesque arcades and plazas showing off their authentic colonial architecture and hosting churches, museums, cafés, restaurants and artisan workshops, among other delights.

The city is situated at 7,000 feet above sea level, in a lush green valley where the air is fresh and you can experience that unique clarity of highland light.

Although San Cristobal is the principal market town and commercial center in this area, it’s also the best hub from which to explore the surrounding indigenous villages and the magnificent natural beauty for which Chiapas is known.

With easy access most commonly by road from the state’s capital city, Tuxtla Gutierrez, good local infrastructure and amenities, and surrounded by some of Mexico’s most breath-taking scenery and unspoiled natural wonders, it’s no surprise that San Cristobal is Chiapas’s top destination and hub for further exploration of this alluring region in southern Mexico.

Tip: Don’t miss the coffee! Chiapas is one of Mexico’s (and the world’s) premier coffee growing regions. If you like coffee, make sure you taste some local blends; they are organic, and exceptional.

A Note About Photographs: Read the important photography rules and warnings in the Practical Information section below, which are especially relevant for the local villages surrounding San Cristobal.

Key Attractions

Colonial Center

Plaza 31 de Marzo (the main plaza) lies near the center of the colonial city and is a main meeting point for locals and visitors alike. On the north side of the plaza is San Cristobal’s Cathedral, on the west side of the plaza are the Municipal buildings where you can also find the local tourist information office.

Three blocks south is the Templo del Carmen with its archway crossing the road, once gateway to the city. Once you have seen the church you can go next door to the Instituto de Bellas Artes (Institute of Fine Arts), which offers art exhibitions and other art fairs from time to time.

Considered San Cristobal’s most beautiful church, the Templo y Ex-Convento de Santo Domingo completed around 1560, is situated north of the main plaza on Avenida 20 de Noviembre.

A further block south, you can visit the Tienda de los Artesanos de Chiapas (Chiapas’ Artisans Shop) where you can buy arts, crafts and textiles created locally, including replicas of the local dress worn by surrounding villagers.

For a vantage point view of San Cristobal, head to the Templo de San Cristobal and climb the steps of its tower. You’ll need to be pretty fit to get to the top, but the views are worth it.

Casa Na-Bolom

Meaning “House of the Jaguar” (Jaguars are Chipas’ ‘local mascot’) this elegant colonial mansion was most recently owned by a philanthropic couple from Switzerland, Gertrude Duby-Blom (who died in 1993), and her husband Frans Blom who died in 1963. After falling in love with Chiapas, they moved here and spent the rest of their lives exploring, surveying and studying the local indigenous societies and ecology, as well as educating and protecting the its peoples. Today the house is packed full of their work including photographs, archaeological finds and books.

No-Bolom is also a guest house and offers tours and investigatory expeditions of the local area. The tours are aimed at people who want to learn about the place and the people they are visiting. If you would like to experience life within a Lacandon community and learn how they make their bow and arrows or listen to their stories of old, book a trip with Na Bolom. Groups are kept purposefully small: 8 people maximum. Over the last 50 years Na Bolom has developed a trust and friendship with the Lacandon people that you won’t find with anyone else.

Museums in San Cristóbal

San Cristobal has a selection of fine museums.

Museo del Ambar de Chiapas (Amber Museum) is situated at the Ex-Convento de la Merced and displays a selection of Amber; Chiapas Amber is known for its purity and clarity.

Museo de Trajes Regionales (Regional Costumes Museum) needs an appointment to be seen; but if local costumes and dress interest you, this is a must see private collection of exhibits.

Museo de Culturas Populares (Popular Cultures Museum) houses temporary exhibits and photographs.

Cafe Museo – Chiapas is one of Mexico’s – and the world’s – premier coffee growing regions; and this cafe-museum is run by Coopcafe, a group of small-scale growers in Chiapas. The museum provides a history of coffee and coffee-growing; and the cafe offers the opportunity to taste the genuine article – pure, delicious organic Chiapas coffee. Don’t miss it!

Tours Through the Cañon del Sumidero (Sumidero Canyon)

Although this is closer to Tuxtla Gutierrez, Cañon de Sumidero is easily experienced as a day trip from San Cristobal. This spectacular canyon created by the Rio Grijalva; following the completion of the hydro-electric dam here in 1981, the area has now become a massive reservoir. You can now read our Complete Guide to the spectacular Sumidero Canyon & Sumidero Eco Park now open inside the canyon.

Eco and Adventure Tourism

Due it natural diversity, rich, fertile lands and eye popping topography, Chiapas is unsurprisingly one of the principal areas in Mexico for Eco and Adventure tourism. San Cristobal is one of the best areas in Mexico to enjoy eco and adventure travel and there are various operators who can help you to enjoy a spectacular outdoor travel experience in the region.

Near San Cristobal : Mountain Villages

You may want to consider an organized tour to experience these villages situated around San Cristobal de las Casas.

Discover the villages of Chamula & Zinacantan by clicking on the links below and get a brief summary of the other villages in the area:

San Juan Chamula

Discover San Juan Chamula

Zinacatan

Discover Zinacatan

Amatenango del Valle

On the highway between here and San Cristobal de las Casas is Amatenango del Valle: A hamlet that is famous for its local potters and pottery. The pottery here is still fired in the traditional way: by building a wood fire around the pieces and not in a kiln. Make sure you stop and see the array of pottery, and more recently, “animalitos” (little animals) on offer (although some of the animal pieces can be quite large, too). Prices are very affordable by western standards; some pieces are fragile, but they will wrap them carefully for you. Be sure to stop and buy.

See Also: Picture Gallery for Amatenango del Valle.

Aguacatenango

Just over an hour away by road from San Cristobal, this village is famous for its embroidery. The embroidery you’ll see being sold in San Cristobal all comes from here.

Tenejapa

On Thursdays to Sundays the market sets up here, and you can find some of the finest quality woven textile in the region. It’s not inexpensive, and the quality is superb.

Local Tours from San Cristobal de las Casas

If you are going to visit the local villages of San Juan Chamula and Zinacatan (see mini guides, above) it’s best to hire the services of a local guide. This is because these communities are distinct: they have customs and practices which will make little sense to an outsider without the explanations of someone with local knowledge of society and culture in the villages.

Getting There & Around

By Air – About 10 miles outside of San Cristobal is a small airport with flights to and fromMexico City, although it has been closed in recent years and the mountain climate, particularly fog, often prevent flights from taking off and landing, especially in the winter months. If you want to come from/go to San Cristobal you may be better off traveling by air from nearby Tuxtla Gutierrez. , a 90 minute road journey from San Cristobal. Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for Airlines.

By Bus – Regular long distance buses make the journey from Mexico City to Tuxtla Gutierrez daily; the journey takes around 15 hours and San Cristobal is a further hour-and-a-half from Tuxtla Gutierrez. The road between Tuxtla Gutierrez and San Cristobal is absolutely stunning. Regional buses also travel daily and frequently from Villahermosa, Campeche, and Merida to and from San Cristobal de las Casas. For detailed information about bus transportation read the Mexperience guide to Bus Travel in Mexico.

By Car – There are now fast roads connecting this region to Merida, Cancun, Oaxaca, Mexico City. The drive is a long one from Mexico City, but you’ll be rewarded by some stunning scenery. Most people tend to fly to the region to Tuxtla Gutierrez) and rent a car locally or use regional buses to get around (see buses, above). Flying to the region is a more sensible options unless you have a specific reason for driving to Chiapas. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads on Mexperience.

Car Rental – To explore Mexico’s colonial towns and cities, consider renting a car for your visit. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn what you need to know about car rental in Mexico and connect to the Mexperience Travel Center to reserve your Rental Car.

Local Buses – Local buses are available to take you around town and are very inexpensive. Most of San Cristobal is accessible on foot.

Taxis – Taxis in most of Mexico’s colonial towns and cities are not metered, so agree your price before you get in. Taxi travel is very affordable in Mexico, in comparison to the USA, Canada and Europe, and so provides a viable means of public transportation in Mexico. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; taxi hotel rates are usually higher than cabs you hail off the street. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a price with the driver. For detailed information, read the Mexperience guide to Taxi Travel in Mexico

San Cristóbal Essentials

Telephone: Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found in the downtown area of San Cristobal de las Casas. During business hours, they and the Casas de Cambio will buy traveler’s cheques and cash from you as well. For detailed information about exchanging and managing your money, read the Mexperience guide to Money in Mexico.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Internet Access: Internet cafes can be easily found in towns and cities across Mexico and WiFi is increasingly commonplace–from cafes, shops, hotels, and some cities even offer free WiFi in some defined public spaces.

Driving in Chiapas – Safety Advice

If you are driving independently in this region, using a rental car or your own vehicle, it’s important to heed some special advice.

It’s best to keep off all highways after dark, unless you know them well, have good local knowledge and a good reason to travel at night.

The highway from San Cristobal to Palenque (Highway 199) must NOT be traveled on after dark. This road cuts through some extremely remote territory including, in the latter stages, sweltering jungle.

The above also applies to Highway 307 between Palenque and Bonampak / Yaxchilan. Most travelers join others and see these places as part of an organized tour; however if you drive there yourself, you should consider joining the convoy of tours which leave early in the morning and get back to Palenque before dusk.

Military Checkpoints: Expect to pass through at least one, but probably several of these on your road trip through Chiapas. Don’t be alarmed, the soldiers may or may not check your car’s trunk; they are polite, respectful and can even provide local advice and directions if you need it.
See Also: Military Checkpoints in Mexico.

Special Note About Photography: The people in this region do not, as a rule, like photographs taken of them and the things they own. In some of the surrounding villages, it is prohibited to take photographs all together, with those who do not comply facing equipment confiscation, fines and even temporary imprisonment. Ask before you take photographs of people and their possessions; you may be asked to pay a small fee for the privilege.

See Also: Photography Etiquette in Mexico.

What to Buy in San Cristobal de las Casas

San Cristobal is an excellent place to buy locally-produced arts and crafts, as well as jewelry and textiles.

Casa de las Artesanias, on Av. Niños Heroes, stocks samples of every craft practised in the state of Chiapas.

Sna Jolobil (meaning ‘weaver’s house’) on Av. Lazaro Cardenas, is a co-operative of textile weavers. Quality and prices are high and the work they create is beautiful.

Lagrimas de la Selva, on Av. Hidalgo, sells locally produced jewelry, crafted princiappyl from local stones, particularly amber.

Local Climate

San Cristobal de las Casas is a town situated in the mountains of Chiapas. The high altitude and mountainous terrain make the climate in this area varied. It can get quite warm in the summer and cold in the winter. Rains can come at any time, but you will also need to pack protective cream and a hat to guard against the sun. When you pack for Chiapas, pack clothes for all weathers; in the winter months you will need to ensure you pack a stock of warm and waterproof clothes.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

The Chamulas have always been a fiercely independent people. As part of the Tzotzil community, they resisted the Spanish upon their arrival in 1524 and later staged a famous rebellion in 1869, attacking the nearby colonial settlement of San Cristobal.

The small town, about 10km (6 miles) from San Cristobal, is a key attraction as part of a tour of local villages around San Cristobal and is best experienced with the help of a local guide, who can give insight and local knowledge that will help you to make some sense of the distinct culture and customs practiced here.

San Juan Chamula is the principal town of the Tzotzils, with a population of around 80,000— it is also the main religious and economic center of the community.

Like neighboring Zinacatan, the Chamulas also are very private people. They do not tolerate well people taking pictures of them or their temples. See Photography section. Like other indigenous communities in this region, they can be identified by the clothes they wear: in this case distinctive purples and pinks predominate. All the clothes they wear are hand made locally. The wool on the sheep, cleaning, dyes and knitting are all obtained “in-house”: nothing is purchased externally. Sheep are sacred here: they are treated, protected and mourned on passing as any other member of the family. If you are driving through this region take extreme precautions with sheep that may wander into the road.

Cultural Insight

75% of Chiapas’ populous is made up of indigenous peoples. Chiapas’ indigenous people live within 9 distinct communities, each with its own language, traditions, costumes, belief systems & patron saint, spiritual leaders & healers and rituals that create a complete and distinct culture. The Tzotzil culture is submissive by western standards: women always follow behind the men; men chop the firewood, but women carry it; you will never see a woman wearing a hat.

Each community has its own identity which is most visible by the colors and design of the clothes they wear: something that is strictly adhered to—you can always tell which community a person is from (whether they are a baby or an old man or woman) by the clothes they wear. People from different communities do not marry; neither must they detach themselves from the religious protocols set out by the community: to do so causes expulsion from it, leaving the couple (and their offspring) to fend for themselves outside of the protection and structure of the communities they were born into.

Religion here is a mixture of Catholicism and Maya Ritual. Chamulas revere St John the Baptist above Jesus Christ; St John’s image is more prevalent inside the church. The Temple of San Juan (St John) is covered in pine needles: the pine tree is an important part of Chamula culture: their towns and villages are surrounded by pine trees. Symbolism is strong: coca-cola is used in rituals, an apparent substitute to Atole (corn based drink) made from black maize; eggs are used to absorb evil; Agua Ardiente (cane based alcohol) is used as a substitute for wine… religion, politics and rituals are deeply intertwined; the community leaders are also spiritual leaders & healers. See Attractions, below for more information about the Temple at San Juan.

As you drive or wander through this region, expect to see a world far removed from anything you expect in a developed country. You’ll see men and women working the fields using rudimentary tools and elbow grease. The living here is simple: women wake up early to cook and tend to family needs: men go out to chop firewood, ready for their wives to collect it, and later will work the fields.

The lifestyles, culture and rituals you’ll see in these communities may not make much sense if you try to align them with an industrialized culture: it’s a key reason why having a good, knowledgeable local guide —who will be able to share important insights and local knowledge with you— is essential to get the most out of a visit to this region and especially the small rural villages.

Attractions

San Juan Chamula and its surrounding villages offer awesome insights into a culture completely distinct to what you experience if you live in an industrialized nation. A highlight of a visit to San Juan is most often the town’s (and community’s) main Temple, where people from all over the nearby villages arrive to conduct rituals, pray and seek healing. There is a small fee to enter; tickets are purchased at the tourist office. Do not take your camera openly into the church; put it in a bag or pocket or in its case. It will be confiscated if you even attempt to take a picture inside. Do not wear any hats inside the church, either. Experiencing this church leaves most visitors with an extremely powerful impression: the pine needle carpet, the kneeling people chanting in front of candles placed in very specific arrangements (as instructed by local healers), the endless ocean of these candles, the animal (chicken) sacrifices; chanting healers using eggs and bones; the strong smell of incense— it is possibly the most unusual church you will ever visit. We cannot show you any pictures of the inside: you will need to visit this place and experience it first hand for yourself.

The market square directly in front of the temple provides an opportunity to buy local foods, crafts and textiles. Expect a barrage of ambulant vendors to approach you offering their chattels for sale; be sure to bring plenty of small bills and loose change to shop here.

Photography

More than anywhere else in this region – you must take extreme care with your photography here. It is completely prohibited to take photographs inside any church, or of any ritual or any religious leader or healer. The least that will happen is that you will have fresh produce hurled at you and your camera; you can also have your camera confiscated, be fined and even imprisoned. The warnings are not lip service – these people are serious about their privacy: Always ask a person before you photograph them or their property.

Catholicism is interwoven with old Mayan tradition in this community and the annual festivals reflect this strongly. The most important festival is that of St John the Baptist, held between June 22nd and 25th.

Local Climate

The high altitude and mountainous terrain make the climate in this area variable. It can get quite warm in the summer and cold in the winter. Rains can come at any time, but you will also need to pack sunscreen and a hat to guard against the sun. When you pack for Chiapas, pack clothes for all weathers; in the winter months you will need to ensure you pack a stock of warm and waterproof clothes.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

Tuxtla Gutierrez and neighboring San Cristobal de las Casas and Comitan are in the state of Chiapas, a region east of Oaxaca and south of Villahermosa and which is undoubtedly Mexico’s most stunning natural scenic area; mostly wild and rugged, it is rich in indigenous life and culture.

Chiapas’ thickly wooded jungles, mountains and valleys, coupled together with its traditional cultures and indigenous roots have kept its look, feel and style very distinct from the rest of Mexico. Although there are some cities, symbols and events here which reveal the area’s colonial heritage, the people here are still well connected with their indigenous roots and life in many parts of the state continues to be lived according to custom and ritual.

Many argue that the natural beauty of this area has no parallel in Mexico. Deep green forested valleys; awesome waterfalls and high mountains with deep canyons and gorges; a colossal wealth of flora, fauna and wildlife, and glorious lakes certainly make this area one of Mexico’s most unspoilt and scenically awsome natural habitats.

Away from the larger towns, Spanish is a second language as people here have stayed true to their indigenous cultures and tongue. You’ll see a lot of indigenous people going about their everyday life, often wearing their traditional dress.

Tuxtla Gutierrez (“Toox-tlah Goo-Tee-Eh-Rehs”) is the capital city of the state of Chiapas. In contrast to the rest of Chiapas, it is a modern, bustling city that is growing very quickly. Tuxtla Gutierrez became the state capital in 1892 and today is the main gateway to Chiapas for visitors, as it offers excellent road and air connections to and from the rest of Mexico.

Some travelers looking for the wild, unspoiled and truly indigenous side of Mexico use the capital city as a set-off point only, although in doing so they miss a lot of what the city has to offer.

One of Mexico’s finest zoos is based here, and it’s also the best place to get access to the amazing boat trips through the Cañon del Sumidero (see Key Attractions).

Don’t miss the coffee! Chiapas is one of Mexico’s (and the world’s) premier coffee growing regions. If you like coffee, make sure you taste some local blends; they are exceptional.

Note About Photography: Read the important photography rules and warnings in the Practical Information section below, especially relevant for the local villages surrounding San Cristobal de las Casas.

Key Attractions

Colonial Center

The main attractions downtown are to be found off the Zocalo (main square) also known as the Plaza Civica (Civic Plaza).

The Whitewashed Catedral de San Marcos is on the Plaza de San Marcos, adjacent to the main square; northeast of this is the Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace) the main seat of political and administrative power in the state. The Palacio Municipal (Municipal Buildings) face the cathedral on the north side of the Civic Plaza.

The Plaza de San Marcos is often filled with artisans and other ambulant vendors selling arts and crafts made in the highlands of Chiapas.

Eight blocks west of the center you’ll find Jardin de la Marimba, where you’ll often find Marimba bands playing every evening in the open air as people take an evening stroll around the park.

Parque Madero is about a mile northeast of the center and hosts the Regional Museum of Chiapas (Museo Regional de Chiapas), the city’s principal theatre (Teatro de la Ciudad) as well as a playground and funfair for children at the Parque de Convivencia Infantil.

Visit the Sumidero Canyon near Tuxtla Gutierrez

A few miles east of Tuxtla Gutierrez is the spectacular Sumidero Canyon created by the Rio Grijalva. You can read our Complete Guide to the spectacular Sumidero Canyon & its Eco Park now open inside the canyon.

The Zoo

Zoologico Miguel Alvarez del Toro is situated on the south side of the city on a wooded hill. Because of Chiapas’ wide natural diversity, this zoo houses a varied collection of wildlife, flora and fauna from the state. The emphasis at this zoo is one of conservation, which is why it takes its name from one of Mexico’s foremost conservationists; the cages are large and the standards for the animals’ welfare are high.

Large cats, macaws, toucans, monkeys all native to Chiapas are some of the creatures you’ll see here; for the brave, there is the snake house, which houses a delightful collection of snakes, spiders and other insects you may meet if you plan to venture out into the jungles in Chiapas.

Chiapa de Corzo

Discover Chiapa de Corzo

Eco and Adventure Travel in Chiapas

Due to its natural diversity, rich, fertile lands and breath-taking topography, Chiapas is, unsurprisingly, one of the principal areas for Eco and Adventure tourism in Mexico. Indeed, Chiapas is one of the best areas in Mexico to enjoy eco and adventure travel and there are various operators who can help you to enjoy a spectacular outdoor travel experience in the region.

Getting There & Around

By Air – You can get to and from Tuxtla Gutierrez from Mexico City, Oaxaca, Villahermosa, Veracruz, Merida and Cancun using the main airport (Aeropuerto Teran), which is about a 5 mile (8 km) drive southwest of town. There is a smaller airport, only used in the summer as its high up in the hills and gets fog-bound in the winter. Taxis are available into town, and car rental desks are situated in the main exit area; book your rental car in advance for better rates. For detailed information about flights and flying, see the Mexperience guide to Air Travel in Mexico.

By Bus – Regular long distance buses make the journey from Mexico City to Tuxtla Gutierrez daily; the journey takes 15 hours. Regional buses travel daily and frequently from Villahermosa, Campeche, Merida and Cancun to and from Tuxtla Gutierrez. For detailed information about bus transportation read the Mexperience guide to Bus Travel in Mexico.

By Car – There are now fast roads connecting this region to Merida, Cancun, Oaxaca, Mexico City. The drive is a long one from Mexico City, but you’ll be rewarded by some stunning scenery. Most recently, a brand-new toll road links Tuxtla and San Cristobal, which is a quicker alternative to Carretera 190. Most people tend to fly to the region and rent a car locally, which is more sensible unless you have a specific reason for driving to Chiapas. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico’s Toll Roads on Mexperience.

Car Rental – To explore Mexico’s colonial towns and cities, consider renting a car for your visit. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn what you need to know about car rental in Mexico and connect to the Mexperience Travel Center to reserve your Rental Car.

Local Buses – Local buses are available to take you around town and are very inexpensive.

Taxis – Taxis in most of Mexico’s colonial towns and cities are not metered, so agree your price before you get in. Taxi travel is very affordable in Mexico, in comparison to the USA, Canada and Europe, and so provides a viable means of public transportation in Mexico. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; taxi hotel rates are usually higher than cabs you hail off the street. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a price with the driver. For detailed information, read the Mexperience guide to Taxi Travel in Mexico

Tuxtla Gutierrrez Essentials

Telephone: Connect to the guide about Communications in Mexico on Mexperience for detailed information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found in the downtown area of Tuxtla Gutierrez. During business hours, they and the Casas de Cambio will buy traveler’s cheques and cash from you as well. For detailed information about exchanging and managing your money, read the Mexperience guide to Money in Mexico.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Driving in Chiapas – Safety Advice

If you are driving independently in this region, using a rental car or your own vehicle, it’s important to heed some special advice.

It’s best to keep off all highways after dark, unless you know them well, have good local knowledge and a good reason to travel at night.

The highway from San Cristobal to Palenque (Highway 199) must NOT be traveled on after dark. This road cuts through some extremely remote territory including, in the latter stages, sweltering jungle.

The above also applies to Highway 307 between Palenque and Bonampak / Yaxchilan. Most travelers join others and see these places as part of an organized tour; however if you drive there yourself, you should consider joining the convoy of tours which leave early in the morning and get back to Palenque before dusk.

Military Checkpoints: Expect to pass through at least one, but probably several of these on your road trip through Chiapas. Don’t be alarmed, the soldiers may or may not check your car’s trunk; they are polite, respectful and can even provide local advice and directions if you need it. See Also: Military Checkpoints in Mexico

Special Note About Photography: The people in this region do not, as a rule, like photographs taken of them and the things they own. In some of the surrounding villages, it is prohibited to take photographs all together, with those who do not comply facing equipment confiscation, fines and even temporary imprisonment. Ask before you take photographs of people and their possessions; you may be asked to pay a small fee for the privilege.

See Also: Photography Etiquette in Mexico.

Internet Access: Internet cafes can be easily found in towns and cities across Mexico and WiFi is increasingly commonplace–from cafes, shops, hotels, and some cities even offer free WiFi in some defined public spaces.

Local Climate

The high altitude and mountainous terrain make the climate in this area highly variable. It can get quite warm in the summer and cold in the winter and rain can come at any time. When you pack for Chiapas, pack clothes for all weathers; in the winter months you will need to ensure you pack a stock of warm and waterproof clothes. You will also need to pack sunscreen and a hat to guard against the sun here.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

Up in the mountains, around 7 miles (11 km) from San Cristobal de las Casas is the small village of Zinacatan; translated it means “Valley of Bats”. The village is often included as part of a tour of local villages around San Cristobal and is best experienced with the help of a local guide, who can give insight and local knowledge that will help you to gain an appreciation of the distinct culture and customs here.

The village dates back to Aztec times, when local salt mines were exploited and formed a major part of the economic activity. Today, the flower trade is the principal means by which the local people make a living. The people of Zinacatan have always been naturally talented trades people and merchants—perhaps a characteristic passed down from their Aztec ancestry.

Like neighboring San Juan Cholula, (see Mini Guide from San Cristobal Page) the people in Zinacatan enjoy their privacy; like other peoples in this region, they can be identified by the clothes they wear: in this case distinctive purples and pinks predominate. All the clothes they wear are hand-made locally. The wool on the sheep, cleaning, dyes and knitting are all obtained “in-house”—nothing is purchased externally. Sheep are sacred here; they are treated, protected and mourned on passing as any other member of the family. If you are driving through this region take extreme precautions with sheep that may wander into the road.

The most important local event here is held around the 10th of August: the festival to honour the Virgen de la Candelaria. Expect parties, processions and special markets during this time.

Cultural Insight

75% of Chiapas’ populous is made up of indigenous peoples. Chiapas’ indigenous people live within nine distinct communities, each with its own language, traditions, costume, belief systems & patron saint, spiritual leaders & healers and rituals that create a complete and distinct culture. The culture is patriarcal by western standards: women always follow behind the men; men chop the firewood, but women carry it; you will never see a woman wearing a hat.

Each community has its own identity which is most visible by the colors and design of the clothes they wear: something that is strictly adhered to—you can always tell what community a person is from (whether they are a baby or an old man or woman) by the clothes they wear. People from different communities do not marry; neither must they detach themselves from the religious protocols set out by the community: to do so causes expulsion from it, leaving the couple (and their offspring) to fend for themselves outside of the protection and structure of the communities they were born into.

As you drive or wander through this region, expect to see a world far removed from anything you expect in a developed country. You’ll see men and women working the fields using rudimentary tools and elbow grease. The living here is simple: women wake up early to cook and tend to family needs: men go out to chop firewood, ready for their wives to collect it and later will work the fields.

The lifestyles, culture and rituals you’ll see here may not make much sense if you try to align them with an industrialized culture: it’s a key reason why having a good, knowledgeable local guide—who will be able to share important insights and local knowledge with you—is essential to get the most out of a visit to this region and especially the small rural villages.

Attractions

Like San Juan Chamula, Zinacatan offers awesome insights into a culture completely distinct to what you experience if you live in an industrialized nation. The main attractions in the center of the village are two churches, both worth a look, and some local market stalls selling crafts. There is an opportunity to buy some flowers and local crafts and take part in an Open House Experience – see below.

Open House Experience

Open House – Unique to Zinacatan, local tour operators in arrangements made with local people, bus visitors to Zinacatan to witness the humble homes of the villagers, eat some traditional food prepared in front of them at the house on an open fire grill or hotplate and buy locally produced crafts and textiles on display at the houses. See the Zinacatan Picture Gallery for pictures of an Open House experience.

Local Climate

The high altitude and mountainous terrain make the climate in this area highly variable. It can get quite warm in the summer and cold in the winter. Rains can come at any time, but you will also need to pack sunscreen and a hat to guard against the sun. When you pack for Chiapas, pack clothes for all weathers; in the winter months you will need to ensure you pack a stock of warm and waterproof clothes.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

Just 12km (7 miles) from the busy capital city of Tuxtla Gutierrez is the peaceful colonial town of Chiapa de Corzo, on the banks of the Rio Grijalva. It’s best known claim to fame is that it was the first city ever founded by the Spanish in the State of Chiapas (1523). It was the Spaniard, Diego de Mazariegos, who founded the town. As the story goes, when his army invaded the local indigenous peoples’ settlement a few kilometers downstream from here, they all jumped to their deaths in the canyon rather than surrender to his forces. Mazariegos eventually left to found what is today San Cristobal de las Casas, preferring the climate and less hostile reception he encountered there.

The town is a main starting point for trips into the impressive Cañon del Sumidero boat trip (see separate guide on Mexperience), although there are various interesting things to see and do here, making it a worthwhile visit in its own right.

Key Attractions

Arched arcades – Under these are shops and cafes that surround the main plaza. There is a statue of General Corzo (after whom the town is named) on the west side of the square. The plaza is an excellent place to stroll and even sit on one the benches and watch the world here go by for a while, perhaps under the shade of a tree.

La Pila – This is an eye catching colonial fountain on the south side. It was built in the mid 16th century with the bricks laid in a diamond shape, some say resembling a crown. The fountain was the main source of fresh water for the townspeople in days of old.

The Temple and Ex Convent of Santo Domingo – The temple is located a block and a half south of the main plaza and is well worth a visit. Enjoy the church and admire the restored colonial convent, also a museum (closed Mondays).

Hotels in Chiapa de Corzo – There is better selection of hotels in Tuxtla Gutierrez, but if you want to stay locally, a small selection of hotels is available in Chiapa de Corzo.

Local Climate

The high altitude and mountainous terrain make the climate in this area very varied. It can get quite warm in the summer and cold in the winter. Rains can come at any time, but you will also need to pack protective cream and a hat to guard against the sun. When you pack for Chiapas, pack clothes for all weathers; in the winter months you will need to ensure you pack a stock of warm and waterproof clothes.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico

The ancient Maya ruins of Chinkultic, situated on the western edge of the Lakes of Montebello National Park, offer interesting temples and ancient buildings to explore and dramatic views across the area’s landscape and jungle. The site is within easy reach of Comitan and a great stop-over on the way to or back from Lakes of Montebello.

The site dates back to as far as 600 AD, and was probably one of the western-most outposts of the Maya civilization. The site is not as well excavated as other Maya sites such as Palenque and Chichen Itza, but the location is well worth a visit as it offers good atmosphere and incredible views from the Acropolis at top of the hill.

The site is very much out in the jungle; it’s hot and humid so sunscreen, bottled water and insect repellent are essential here.

Key Attractions

Chinkultic only requires an hour or two at most to visit. As you enter the site, you’ll walk past several structures which are still only partially excavated and still covered by extensive vegetation, including the Plaza Hundida (Sunken Plaza).

A small stone bridge crosses the stream and the topography begins to get steeper—a brisk walk up a semi-stone pathway leads you up the main temple of the site, the Acropolis.

From the top of the hill, you can explore some ruined remains of the Acropolis and get some great views of the surrounding landscape and jungles. It’s very quiet and serene here.

Below and to the left as you look out from the Acropolis, you’ll see a cenote—an ancient water reservoir. Cenotes were an important source of water for ancient civilizations and they can be seen across all Mexico, especially near archaeological areas. This cenote is special in that it is the only known one in the state of Chiapas.

Getting There & Around

By Car: To get to Chinkultic from Comitan, follow highway 190 for about 15 km, turning east at the signpost; this is before you get to the town of La Trinitaria. This road passes the Maya Ruins of Chinkultic and later enters the forest of the National Park of the Lakes of Montebello (Parque Nacional Lagunas de Montebello).

Car Rental: To explore the local area around Chinkultic and Chiapas, consider renting a car locally. Having your own car will give you more flexibility than using public transport options and, in some cases, offer you access to places which are otherwise difficult to visit without the use of a car. Read our guide to Car Rental in Mexico to learn about car rental in Mexico.

Chinkultic Essentials

Opening Days & Times: 7 Days a week; 8 am to 5 pm Admission charges apply (check with local tourist office for latest admission prices).

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical insurance and/or travel assistance insurance when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Photography & Video: A permit is required if you want to use a tripod to take photographs at the archaeological site. A small fee is made for the use of hand-held video equipment. Read the section on Mexperience Mexico Essentials about Video & Photography at archaeological sites in Mexico.

Ideal Clothing & Footwear: You’ll need a good, comfortable pair of walking shoes with a non-slip sole. Wear light clothes – it gets very hot and humid here. Insect repellent is essential in Chinkultic as this site is located in the jungle.   See Local Climate, below.

Nearby Places & Attractions

Major Cities: Mexico City (Closest)

Colonial Cities: Comitan, Tuxtla Gutierrez, San Cristobal de las Casas, Villahermosa, Oaxaca

Nearest Beaches/ Resorts: Cancun, Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, Isla Mujeres

Other Archaeological Sites Nearby: Palenque, Tenam Puente, Yaxchilan, Bonampak

Local Climate

The area surrounding Chinkultic has jungle weather: extremely hot and humid. Dress with light clothes that allow your skin to breathe; natural fibers (cotton) are best; avoid synthetics (e.g. polyester) and denim as you’ll feel very uncomfortable wearing them in this jungle climate. Bring sun screen, insect repellent and a hat. Carry plenty of water and stay well hydrated at all times.

Weather & Climates in Mexico

Learn more about the weather and climates through the seasons and regions by connecting to the Mexperience guide about Weather and Climates in Mexico