A 3,500-year history that begins in Mesoamerica

But even before then, cacao beans were being fermented and turned into drink by the Olmec, and the Maya who mixed it with vanilla and spices to create a beverage taken during important religious and social ceremonies.

The precise date when humans began consuming cocoa is unclear —recent archaeological evidence suggests that Mesoamericans may have been cultivating the cacao plant and using it to make beverages as far back as 1400 B.C.— but historians agree that cocoa was an important substance held in high regard by our ancestors.

A precious bean also used as a form of currency

Cacao beans were also used as a form of currency; Cortés’s men observed how precious the beans appeared to the native peoples, and ancient records show that livestock and other goods were traded in exchange for them. The Aztecs also accepted cacao beans in payment of their taxes, or tributes as they were known.

The Spaniards did not take to the bitterness of the Aztec cacao, but discovered that blending it with cane sugar (from Europe) or honey (from Yucatán) made it more agreeable to their taste.  In its sweetened form, the beverage became popular across Spain from the seventeenth century although, like tea leaves in England during the same period, cocoa was expensive and taken almost exclusively by the social élite and well-heeled.

The emergence of chocolate confections

During the mid-nineteenth century Coenraad Johannes van Houten, a Dutch chemist, worked out a way of creating cocoa in a powder form by removing some of the natural fat and adding alkaline to create a mixture termed as “Dutch cocoa.”

A few years later, the Englishman Joseph Fry discovered that a mold-able paste could be produced by mixing melted cocoa butter back into the Dutch cocoa powder—he is thus widely credited with having created the first chocolate bar.

Chocolate became ubiquitous during the twentieth century, although most chocolate products being purveyed were blended with large quantities of sugar and other additives reducing the cocoa content (and cost) of the end product.

‘Artisan’ chocolate has long been purveyed by specialist chocolatiers across Europe, and this practice is making a comeback today in the U.S. in the form of independent chocolate makers offering hand-made pralines created with higher cocoa content and blending the more expensive cacao bean varieties instead of the hardier, less expensive and less flavorful beans preferred by mass producers.

Cacao production in Mexico

Despite having been the ‘birthplace’ of chocolate, Mexico’s cacao production now makes up just a small fraction the world’s total. (Africa is the largest producer.) Mexico’s cacao trees grow primarily along the coastal plains in the Gulf-coast state of Tabasco, where the esteemed plant thrives in the sweltering humidity of that region.  The state of Chiapas, with its fertile sub-tropical climate, is the second largest region in Mexico where cacao trees grow well.

Even from its low baseline, cacao production in Mexico has fallen by half since the early part of this century, and the Mexican government has been backing some projects in an attempt to revive the country’s production of the crop, particularly in the area of organic cacao which holds great favor in current markets and commands a premium price.

Chocolate in its mystical form: as a beverage

Although chocolate confections are widely available in Mexico today (and artisan pralines are a form of luxury here) modern-day Mexicans, like their Aztec ancestors, still prefer to take their chocolate as a liquid beverage, albeit with a European twist: by far the most popular method is melting tablets of cocoa mixed with sugar and cinnamon into hot water or milk, and whipping the drink into a froth using a specially-turned wooden whisk called a molinillo, which aerates the mixture.  According to Mexican folklore, the “spirit” of this mystical beverage dwells in the foam.

The Mexican piñata party ritual

For the uninitiated, the piñata is a decorated clay pot or papier-mâché container filled with treats (more about those later) which is strung from a rope and flailed at in turns by party-goers who are blindfolded and armed with a stick.

A person at one end of the rope —or sometimes a person at each end— will be able to swing the piñata in an attempt to keep it away from its assailant, and make the game last as long as possible.

When the piñata breaks, the contents are scattered on the ground and a rush is made to collect as much loot as possible.

At most children’s birthday parties and Christmas posadas the order in which the participants get a shot is based on age, from youngest to eldest.  This is logical since the bigger the person, the more likely they are to break the piñata, and the idea is to keep it going for a good while—at least long enough to ensure that every child has a turn.

Stick flailed to the piñata song

The duration of a “turn” is as long as it takes to sing the piñata song, which goes like this:

Dale dale dale, no pierdas el tino,
Porque si lo pierdes, pierdes el camino.
Ya le diste uno,
Ya le diste dos,
Ya le diste tres y tu tiempo se acabó.

Which loosely translates as:

Hit-it hit-it hit-it, don’t lose your aim,
Because if you lose it, you will lose your way.
Now you’ve hit it once,
Now you’ve hit it twice,
Now you’ve hit it three times,
And your time is up.

Essential preparations for your piñata ritual

More thought and decision-making goes into a simple piñata ritual than you might expect:

First of all, what should go inside the piñata?

Christmas piñatas tend to be healthier than birthday piñatas.  They usually contain pieces of sugar cane, tangerines, or little oranges called naranjas piñateras, peanuts, a Mexican fruit called tejocote, limas (a sort of cross between an orange and a lime) and a variety of candy: boiled sweets, chocolate coins, and such.  Birthday piñatas tend to have more candy and less fruit.  Some piñatas may also contain small toys and other trinkets.

Next, where to stretch the rope on which the piñata will be strung?

This often involves at least one person, usually an adult, leaning precariously out of an upstairs window, on a rooftop terrace, or hanging-off the side of one of those spiral iron staircases common in Mexico as a way up onto the roof.

Finding the right stick to strike the piñata

A traditional wooden broom handle is the best, and if you visit your local ferreteria you should be able to buy one.

The new-style hollow plastic or thin hollow metal tube handles are too light to make any impression on the piñata, especially the more common papier-mâché ones which are quite resistant. A baseball bat is too heavy for the smaller swingers and gives an unfair advantage to the bigger children or adults.

Piñata shops actually sell sticks that are about the right size and weight, which is fine in today’s world of ready-made.  If the stick doesn’t break during the ritual, it can be stored ready for the next party.

Add a blindfold and the piñata ritual can begin

Once the piñata is all set up, and someone finds an adequate scarf or bandanna to use as a blindfold, the fun is ready to begin.  (The little children are not blindfolded, by the way.)

Unwritten rules and strategies

If the piñata is one of the spherical ones with paper cones stuck on it, a common strategy frequently used by players is to knock-off one or more of the cones without breaking the piñata.

There’s a sort of unwritten rule that if you break one of those off, that ends your turn, but you get to keep the cone, which is useful for filling with goodies once the piñata is broken.

If the piñata is thematic —Disney characters seem perennially popular— an arm or a leg or any other non-core piece of the piñata could be broken-off and kept for the same purpose.

Time outs, the break, and the final rush for the bounty

With clay-pot piñatas, one good crack can break them open and the contents would spill on the floor.  With the more common and most popular papier-mâché variety, often the piñata will split rather than break, and just a few things fall out, prompting some of the children to rush-in to grab them while the person with the stick may still be in full-swing: if blind-folded, they might not realize the piñata has been split.

This calls for a time-out while the stray pieces of fruit or candy are retrieved. If the split or tear in the piñata is big enough, the person in charge of the rope will usually shake it up and down so that more fall out.

Then one of the adults will take it upon him or herself to declare the piñata broken, step into the arena, grab the damaged artifact and shake it until all the contents are emptied onto the ground.

This signal is a cue for the scrum, as children rush-in armed with their cones and other piñata parts, or at least one of those ubiquitous plastic bags, to fill.

After the adrenaline fest, adults with brooms appear to sweep up the remains of tissue paper, papier-mâché, and the odd broken fruit no one claimed; and some redress is made in benefit of the less aggressive of the participants whose share of the loot doesn’t come anywhere near to what even the least social-minded might consider fair.

September, the Mes de la Patria because of the Independence Day, brings chiles en nogada, hot green peppers filled with walnuts and raisins, covered with cream and sprinkled with pomegranate; and pozole, a broth with large grains of corn, red or green chili, chicken or pork, radish, and other trimmings.

October is when bakeries bring out the Pan de Muerto bread for the All Souls Day celebrations, although some stores, particularly supermarkets, start selling it during late August, presumably to maximize their sales opportunity.

Christmas dishes include bacalao, specially prepared codfish; romeritos, dried shrimp and rosemary sprigs in mole; and the Rosca de Reyes cake is cut at Epiphany (Three Kings Day) on January 6th.

Tamales, a traditional (and ancient) food made using corn dough steamed in a corn husk or banana leaf, and flavored with savory or sweet fillings are eaten all year round, but traditionally at Candlemas, on February 2nd. Also by tradition, if your slice of Rosca de Reyes contains a baby doll figurine (baked into the mix of every cake), you are obliged to host a party on this date to serve the tamales to family and friends.

For newcomers to Mexico, some local dishes, particularly spicy ones, take a while to get used to, and some people at first turn their noses up at the different tastes and smells. Quite understandably, many Mexicans are astounded someone wouldn’t like pozole, or mole, or some other dish that people here get excited about, and they assume you haven’t tried it. If you say you have, then obviously “no has probado el que hace mi tía“—you haven’t tried the one my aunt makes.

Perhaps one of the most acquired tastes in Mexican food is mole. This sauce is made from dried and ground chile peppers mixed with other spices and ingredients—famously chocolate used in making mole poblano (from Puebla) or black mole of Oaxaca. There are many kinds of mole, which are usually mixed with meat, rice, chicken, or vegetables.  Mole recipes vary and local restaurants renowned for their mole often keep the precise recipe (moreover, the proportions of the ingredients) a closely-guarded secret.

La Ofrenda: the altar of offering

A centerpiece of the traditions that surround the occasion is the creation and open placement of an ofrenda —an altar of offering— that usually manifests as an altar in family homes, although some ofrendas are also arranged at local cemeteries, and in public spaces including parks and plazas.

These altars are an art form and personal expression of love towards one’s family members now passed; they are not intended for worshiping but instead for the purpose of remembrance and celebration of life.

The three tiers of an ofrenda

Traditionally, altars featuring ofrendas will be composed of three layers:

• the top tier contains photographs of the remembered deceased as well as religious statues or symbols, especially that of La Virgen Guadalupe;
• the second tier will contain the ofrendas: toys are usually offered for deceased children, and bottles of tequila, mezcal, or atole for deceased adults.  Personal ornaments, and/or the deceased’s favorite food or confection will also be present here, as will Pan de Muerto;
• the third tier will feature lit candles, and some people add a washbasin and a towel so that the spirits of the deceased may refresh themselves upon arrival at the altar.

The second tier of the altar is the most personal, furnished with a thoughtful selection of ofrendas for the remembered deceased.  Special care is given to the composition of this layer by those creating the ofrendas, giving due consideration to the important things their loved ones most enjoyed during the course of their lifetime.

In remembrance of deceased children, toy and game sets, cuddly toys, as well as candy and snacks they enjoyed may be placed here.  For adults, it’s traditional to leave samples of the food and drink they especially enjoyed (or the ingredients which make them).

Small clay pots containing samples of foods like corn, spices, chiles, and confectionery are common; as are clay cups or mugs containing the deceased’s favorite beverages—which could include sodas, chocolate, coffee, tea, atole; as well as tequila, pulque, or mezcal, etc.

Every altar will include Mexican orange marigold flowers called cempaxochitl —colloquially referred to as flor de muerto— as well as Pan de Muerto, bread of the dead.

Making arrangements for the ofrenda

In the two weeks or so leading-up to Day of the Dead, local markets across Mexico begin to fill-up with colorful stalls selling all the items traditionally needed to fully dress a family ofrenda.

Local markets are indispensable

If you’re visiting Mexico in the days leading up the event, be sure to visit at least one local market to experience the atmosphere and witness the traditions which accompany the creation of family altars, and where you’ll see local people busily seeking out the indispensable pieces they need to compose their own unique and very personal ofrenda: a symbol of remembrance and a celebration of lives lived.

Drapes and adornments

The altar tables are usually draped and adorned with colorful paper or cloth, some with cut-outs known as papel picado and formed into a variety of patterns which echo the traditions —Catrinas, skulls, crosses, and flowers are most common— and some even depict pumpkins.

Something sweet

Most altars will include some form of confectionery, typically caramelized pumpkin and an assortment of sugar skulls which are creatively decorated and painted and sold in a range of different sizes.

The importance of candlelight

Candlelight is an important atmospheric aspect of each ofrenda, and the markets are replete with options, often presented in colorful pots and jars, or with edges of the wax candle painted and decorated in harmony with Day of the Dead themes. Incense burners may also be found on some ofrendas, alongside the candles.

Where to find ofrendas in Mexico

The ofrendas can be seen at local cemeteries, and in public parks and plazas. In some provincial towns and villages, local families traditionally open their homes’ altars on the 1st and 2nd of November—so a visit to a local cemetery and a wander around local neighborhoods may provide you with an opportunity to share and experience Day of the Dead traditions at a very local and personal level.

You can learn more about the traditions of Day of the Dead, including the altars and Catrinas on our article about Celebrating Life on Day of the Dead in Mexico

Learn more about Day of the Dead in Mexico

We publish guides and articles to help you discover more about Day of the Dead in Mexico, as well as Pátzcuro and Oaxaca City.

• Articles to discover Day of the Dead in Mexico
• How to plan ahead for Day of the Dead
• Celebrating life on Day of the Dead
• Meet the elegant Catrinas
• Delicious bread and hot chocolate traditions
• The iconic flower synonymous with Day of the Dead
• Children’s Calaverita traditions
• Guides to Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca City

Traditionally, November 1st honors deceased children and November 2nd honors deceased adults.  Day of the Dead is celebrated passionately throughout Mexico, and especially so in smaller provincial towns and cities. November 2nd is an official Public Holiday in Mexico.

Mexico’s Day of Dead: a celebration of life

Far from being a morbid event, Day of Dead emphasizes remembrance of past lives and expresses celebration of the continuity of life.  This acknowledgement of life’s continuity has roots which go back to some of Mexico’s oldest civilizations including the Olmec, Zapotec, Maya, and Purépecha.  The Aztecs also celebrated Day of the Dead, although earlier —August— on the current calendar.

Local festivities and traditions vary from place to place, although the ofrendas are the focal point of the celebrations during the festive period.  Mexico City hosts a large and elaborate procession downtown, and provincial towns and cities hold religious processions to mark the occasion.  It’s currently fashionable for participants to have their face painted to emulate Catrinas.

Although Halloween on October 31st and Dia de los Muertos on November 1st and 2nd are strictly speaking two distinct events, in recent times the two festive dates have blended into each other illustrating how Mexico is adept at assimilating foreign things without losing its own identity—and often putting a particularly Mexican stamp on them.

La Ofrenda: an altar of remembrance

Local families will plan for Day of the Dead celebrations days, weeks, or perhaps even a whole year in advance.  A focal point of the remembrance ritual is families creating ofrendas —altars with offerings to the deceased— which are set-up in homes or public spaces like parks or plazas, and also at local cemeteries where family members are buried.

These colorful altars, which are also an art form and personal expression of love towards one’s family members now passed, are not for worshiping but instead for the purpose of remembrance and celebration of a life lived.

They are usually layered: the top tier contains a picture or pictures of the remembered deceased as well as religious statues or symbols, especially that of La Virgen Guadalupe; the second tier will contain the ofrendas: toys are usually offered for deceased children, and bottles of tequila, mezcal, or atole for deceased adults.  Personal ornaments, and/or the deceased’s favorite food or confection will also be present here, as will Pan de Muerto.  The third tier will feature lit candles, and some people add a washbasin and a towel so that the spirits of the deceased may refresh themselves upon arrival at the altar.

Every altar will feature calaveras —decorated candied skulls made from sugar— as well as the bright orange marigolds, colloquially referred to as flor de muerto (“Flower of the Dead”), one of the iconic symbols woven into Day of the Dead celebrations across Mexico.

During the celebratory period, it’s traditional for families to visit local cemeteries where their loved ones are buried, where they clean and to decorate the graves with similar offerings to those included in the home’s altar.

Catrinas: artistic symbol of Day of the Dead celebrations

The character on which La Calavera Catrina —“The elegant skull”— is based was conceived by Mexican engraver José Guadalupe Posada. The original Catrina was titled La Calavera Garbancera: in the form of an artistic etching in zinc, composed for use as political satire around 1910, intended to poke fun at a certain social class of Mexicans who the artist portrayed as having European-aristocratic aspirations; thus the Catrina’s archetypal grandiose plumed hat of a style which passed through a period of high fashion in Europe during that age. This related article explains the history and culture of Catrinas in Mexico.

Pan de Muerto and hot chocolate: the traditional treat on Day of the Dead

One of the culinary highlights of the season is Pan de Muerto —Bread of the Dead— which is a semi-sweet sugar-dusted bread made from eggs and infused with natural citrus fruit flavors.  It’s traditionally taken with hot chocolate that has been mixed with cinnamon and whisked, a pairing that creates a warming blend for enjoyment on a chilly November evening.  Learn how to enjoy Pan de Muerto in Mexico.

Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca: popular towns to celebrate, with plenty of color elsewhere too

Day of the Dead is a holiday that attracts a certain fascination for visitors from abroad, and enjoyed by foreign residents who witness the unfolding of local festivities in their adopted towns and villages each year.

Celebrations in the colonial city of Oaxaca and the ancient highland town of Pátzcuaro are particularly well attended by foreign visitors, and forward planning is vital if you want to experience Day of the Dead at either of these places.

Even if you can’t get to Oaxaca or Pátzcuaro, you’ll discover that communities across Mexico compose their own interpretations of the event to celebrate Day of the Dead, and so wherever you are in Mexico this time of year you’ll have an opportunity to experience this distinctive celebration—one of the most colorful, poignant and atmospheric Mexico offers.

The precise ceremonies, offerings, and customs for Day of the Dead celebrations vary by region and town, but the essential traditions described here are an integral part of the event which is echoed all over Mexico.

A visit to a local cemetery, where family graves are dressed with color and decorations, a local park or plaza where ofrendas have been gathered, or a glimpse into one or more of the local homes which are opened-up to visitors during this period and where the lives of those past are lovingly remembered by those present is a rewarding and worthwhile cultural experience to behold.

Learn more about Day of the Dead in Mexico

We publish guides and articles to help you discover more about Day of the Dead in Mexico, as well as Pátzcuro and Oaxaca City.

• Articles to discover Day of the Dead in Mexico
• How to plan ahead for Day of the Dead
• Celebrating life on Day of the Dead
• Meet the elegant Catrinas
• Altars and offerings for Day of the Dead
• Delicious bread and hot chocolate traditions
• The iconic flower synonymous with Day of the Dead
• Children’s Calaverita traditions
• Guides to Pátzcuaro and Oaxaca City

Hacienda Uxmal is a working plantation that offers comfortable and very agreeable accommodations in the heart of the Yucatán jungle.  The property is situated less than a ten-minute walk away from Uxmal archaeology site—the best-known Maya site along the Ruta Puuc.

As we remarked in a related article, staying overnight near the archaeological ruins of Uxmal or Chichen Itzá offers several advantages and helps you to get the most out of your visit to these famous archaeology sites—which are among the most visited in all Mexico.

Practicalities aside, the Hacienda Uxmal is an experience in its own right.  From the midst of a thickly-wooded jungle springs a beautifully planned and well-kept property featuring beautifully appointed rooms surrounded by carefully manicured gardens, and refreshing swimming pool which offers cool refreshment after a long day exploring archaeology ruins.

The hotel features an elegant restaurant on-site offering Mayan, Mexican and International cuisine prepared using fresh local ingredients.  Breakfasts offer a buffet, or choices from an a-la-carte menu.

Uxmal is an easy drive one-hour from Mérida.  Arrive early afternoon and settle-in to your room, wander and relax around the grounds, or take a tour of the remarkable Cacao Museum, run by the hotel just a five-minute walk away.  For an evening of light entertainment, consider the nighttime ‘light and sound’ show at Uxmal which begins around 7:30pm (check times locally) and tickets can be purchased at the hotel’s reception.  Dinner at the elegant restaurant can be taken on the terrace in the evening when the air is cooler.

After an early breakfast, a ten-minute walk will have you at the gates of the Uxmal archaeology park long before the tour buses and crowds arrive.

Hacienda Uxmal also offers a range of other amenities including a spa, an Aztec steam bath (Temazcal), horse riding tours, free use of bicycles, and a games room.  Local tours can be organized from the hotel including outings to local cenotes which offer you an opportunity to swim in fresh water underground pools, situated in remote jungle areas surrounded by natural beauty.

The Choco-Story cacao museum, situated adjacent to the hotel, offers a remarkable and very enjoyable learning experience that tells a detailed history of the cacao-growing and chocolate-making business in Mexico.

You could stay one night and use Hacienda Uxmal as a base to explore the ruins, but a longer stay provides an ideal opportunity to get the most from what the hacienda and surrounding area offers—including a visit to local cenotes, the cacao museum, and other important archaeology sites on the Ruta Puuc.