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Mexico Travel Diaries - Leg 5
Puerto Vallarta, Costalegre and Manzanillo
Puerto Vallarta
The roads across Mexico City to the airport are running quite smoothly; the taxi driver remarks how today is the last day of respite, before the mass of people and traffic returns following the end of the Christmas break as the kids go back to school here tomorrow.
I left for the airport at 730am; I’m flying on Mexicana, one of Mexico’s main airlines. Its check-in queue is quite long, and there’s a random baggage security search desk perched near the front, but progress is swift and within a few short minutes I have checked in. As I walk to the Wings restaurant for breakfast, I squeeze through a snaking queue of people lining up for Aeromexico flights which was progressing at a snail’s pace when I first arrived.
As the flight makes its final approach into Puerto Vallarta, below me I see acres of lush green trees and vegetation. The mountains give way to an opening in the distance; and beyond that, I see the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean. As I step off the plane, a warm air hugs me; I have arrived.
The taxi from the airport to the Camino Real Puerto Vallarta Hotel where I am staying charges about 150 Pesos for the twenty-five minute journey. Stepping out of the taxi and up some steps into the open-air reception lobby, I hear the sound of the Pacific waves landing on the beach just a few yards behind. It’s a little overcast, but the cloud is breaking up; rays of sunshine are beginning to appear through patches of blue sky.
The hotel has two main towers; designed in such a way that every room proffers a sea view; to see the palm-lined mountain behind the hotel, you need to look out of the windows along the passageways that give access to each room.
“Is this your first visit?” asks the man from the concierge who carries my bags to the room. He goes on to tell me about the hotel’s facilities; it’s 4 restaurants, pool bar, 3 swimming pools, gymnasium, beach, shops and tennis courts. “You have to book the tennis courts in advance, they’re very popular” he remarks.
After lunch, I decide to spend some time wandering around the grounds of the hotel’s property; enjoying the sea views, walking along the beach, stopping every once in a while to watch the world go by. There are some families here; either their children's schools don’t open until next week or they are on an extended holiday. Couples, multiple couples and retired / semi-retired folk are commonplace; there are a few single people here too. The atmosphere is relaxed; friendly and welcoming. A group of American couples play volleyball in one of the pools especially set up with a net as others watch and soak up the afternoon sun. Waiters are busily refreshing people’s drinks and delivering poolside snacks. Out on the beach, the man selling para-gliding experiences tries to drum up some business; with little success.
I decide to spend some time on the beach. I bought some 30-factor sun block at the hotel store, as I discovered that my 15 factor was evaporating soon after I applied it; I could feel myself burning and didn’t warm to the idea of being toasted alive on an early leg of this journey. If you are prone to burning in the sun like I am, beware: the sun here is fierce, even in low season, and even on cloudy days!
Back at the poolside, I find a spare lounge chair to settle down on for a while. Local wildlife from the jungle-like mountains behind arrives to investigate the latest selection of touring visitors to their altered habitat; perhaps to feed. A young boy, maybe 10 or 11 years old, throws a piece of apple onto the ground and hides behind one of the chairs to see what happens next. Within seconds, half a dozen birds appear; as if the apple has sent out a homing signal to potential suitors. Landing nearby or on top of the parasols, the birds analyse the scene before making a possible move to the bounty; a possible trap? Weighing the risk: tasty fresh apple versus possible destruction, one bird hops bravely toward the apple piece and scoops it up, promptly flying away. The boy, seemingly disappointed, walks away muttering under his breath about something I didn’t quite catch. Well, at least the bird was happy.
The sun is beginning to set now and people are digging into their bags for cameras, as am I. As the sun descends into the ocean ahead, a plethora of colour and mosaics reflect against the ocean and the sky behind; I’m sure no one will capture the essence of this natural magic on film or digital image; you just have to be here to experience it.
At 8am the next morning, my telephone rings. Marguerite, a friend from England has arrived in Puerto Vallarta. She’s over here spying the landscape to see if she may like to live in Mexico for a few winter months. From recent emails, I hear that England’s weather is somewhat chillier than Puerto Vallarta’s 80F. Semi-retired now, Marguerite makes a point of absconding from England’s cold winters; she has come to the right place. We agree to meet for Breakfast a little later.
The balcony off the room looks straight onto the Pacific Ocean. I spend a few minutes there in the morning, just watching the waves land onto the soft beach sands through the palm-trees; alone with my thoughts.
During breakfast, Marguerite and I discuss the plan for the week. She will travel with me as far south as Acapulco looking for a possible place to rent an apartment for a while; time undetermined at this point. “I may spend three months here and then go to Lamu”, Marguerite remarks, “It’s just… how do I get there?” I look at Marguerite and in a casual voice remark, “Well, you could always fly…”
We need to rent a car to travel south; it’s the only sensible way to explore this part of Mexico. I have never rented a car in Mexico before and discover that there’s a stinging “drop-off” charge that equates to over 40% of the rental cost as a one-off charge, because we want to leave the car in the town of Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo about 700Km south of here; although Marguerite may drive it back to Puerto Vallarta if she decides to return. The drop-off charge is standard in Mexico with all car-rental companies: If you don’t take the car back where you rented it from, you pay to have the car driven back by someone else - and that's what you pay for.
The town of Puerto Vallarta has a charming colonial look and atmosphere. I travelled into town last night and returned this afternoon. There are no “big” attractions here like a majestic cathedral or overwhelming Government Palace. The whole town is addictive; the cobbled streets beg to be explored; the shopping areas have real shops, not just never-ending rows of pre-fabricated samey-looking franchise operations selling the same old same old; shopping here is fun; an adventure in its own right!
The promenade was rebuilt after the hurricane that hit Puerto Vallarta on October 25th 2002, and literally dragged the old promenade and sea-front shops out to sea. It was a true disaster for Mexico’s tourism industry. Mexico’s president arrived in November and as legend tells it said, “I want this fixed in 40 days”. Two months later; it’s fixed. The amount of resources applied to getting Puerto Vallarta back into business must have been immense – but they did it – and it looks good again.
The streets are lined with small market stalls; but not so many that you are choked by them. Small boutiques line the roadside selling jewellery, clothing, art and crafts. Cafés and restaurants abound. I stop at El Jardin, just off the main square. The food is excellent; the service is impeccable. Eco tour operators, travel shops and local service tour providers offer a wealth of travel experiences: horse riding, whale watching (in season), boat tours, buggy rental, jungle tours… take your pick. All you need is time.
Puerto Vallarta is safe; it’s exciting, it’s fun. I feel like a little boy in a toyshop, enthralled with the current selection in front of me; not being able to contain myself at the prospect of what awaits me on the next aisle. The people here are friendly; they acknowledge your presence; they stop to chat; they want to hear your story and tell you theirs. People make time for life; I feel relaxed and welcome. I feel as if I have not had enough time here; I don’t want to leave, but it’s time to move on.
Costalegre (Costa Careyes)
Around 10am I sign the paperwork for the rental car and by 11am we are on highway 200 heading south out of Puerto Vallarta. The road is tranquil and despite its twists and turns, is an easy road to drive. The landscape around us is green and lush; even though it isn’t rainy season. To the west, we are afforded some excellent Pacific views from time to time, although the road soon veers inward, and the ocean disappears out of sight.
165km and about 2 hours later we arrive at Costa Careyes on Mexico’s Costalegre. This region on Mexico’s Pacific coast is where millionaires and billionaires own homes; tucked away behind a hill or a mountain, enjoying their own beaches in total seclusion. It’s one of the places in the world where global celebrities pass through to relax and get away from prying eyes.
I drop Marguerite off at a small village by the coast called Tanacatita, where she’ll stay for a couple of nights and investigate the local area to see if she may like to settle here for a short while. I return to El Careyes, an exclusive hotel resort off Km56 on Mexico’s highway 200.
Costalegre is not a destination; it’s an area between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo on Mexico’s Pacific coastline. The area is known for it's small selection of ultra-exclusive hotels and resorts that are tucked away among the many coves of this beautiful landscape. I have been invited to experience El Careyes Resort as part of the journey, which is one of the exclusive hotel/resorts in this area.
As you drive off the highway at Km56, you begin a short ride on a cobble stoned drive that eventually leads to a gatehouse. There is an immediate air of tranquillity as I drive up to the hotel entrance; the area is surrounded by an immaculately kept garden featuring palm trees, agaves and a variety of other flora. Arriving here is like stepping into a new world.
The reception area is outdoors under one of the many colourful arches that are a primary feature of the architecture here. Cool fresh fruit juice and a warmed towel await every guest upon arrival; it’s hot and humid in this area. As I look west from reception; I see another archway; a carefully landscaped garden and beyond that – the horizon across the Pacific Ocean. The symbol of the moon is engraved with stonework art on one side of the hotel’s entrance with the sun on the other. Legend has it that if you walk across the stonework sun, you will always return to Costa Careyes.
I as settle in to my room I find it is simple, but extremely elegant. It is airy and spacious and is fitted out with all of the things you would expect at a top-class hotel. The bed features a deep mattress set upon a concrete base – very comfortable.
I spend some time wandering around the property. It’s quiet and relaxed. With a limited capacity for guests, El Careyes is never busy, and even when it’s full it wouldn’t feel at all crowded. The rooms at the hotel have been laid out in a horse-shoe shape around a central area adorned with palms, other trees and shrubs. Labyrinths of pathways guide you from the entrance, archways and pool area through the centre of the complex.
Underneath the archways a selection of shops, boutiques and services are on hand: the hotel’s Spa; a delicatessen; clothing boutiques; a travel agency; a real-estate office which can also arrange Polo.
I wandered around the central gardens of the hotel at about 11pm one night and all was quiet; only the sound of crickets, the waves of the Pacific Ocean along with the odd crackle from the ‘campfire’ that is sometimes lit in the centre of the garden can be heard; the aroma from the fire is sweet.
The restaurant is outdoors under a wood and straw sunshade; the tables looks directly out to the ocean and there is even a table at “the point” – right next to the sea – on a ledge towards to the outer edge of the property.
Patricia Quintana, a celebrity chef and author in Mexico, has trained the chefs who cook your food here. The recipes are based on the recipes in her latest book; a collection of regional fish cuisine from 18 of Mexico’s States including the Pacific Coast, the Yucatan area, Mexico City and the Gulf Coast. The food is excellent; if you enjoy the experience of a good meal, cooked to perfection and served among stunning surroundings, El Careyes won’t let you down.
At the secluded beach, some guests laze quietly under the shade of a straw-roofed sunshade; others use the canoes to paddle in the waves. Many people choose to sunbathe by the deep blue waters of the uniquely-shaped plunge-pool. Looking out to sea, there are several seating areas made up of concrete, but covered with deep soft cushions which people sink quietly into while they read, chat, doze, sip a drink – perhaps all of these – in the cool of the shade, as the warm ocean breeze tickles past.
I walk up to greet a couple who look relaxed and well under one of the shaded areas; we enjoy a long chat and share stories, experiences, and funny tales of life and travel. They agree to have their picture taken for the website and remark themselves how relaxed they look when I show it to them on the digital camera’s screen! They came to Mexico’s Costalegre looking for a complete escape from their busy and engaging lives back home; and they found it.
The people who arrive at El Careyes come for peace and quiet. By 1030pm the restaurant and bar has been evacuated after evening dinner. As I finished off a night cap of Cuba Libre (Bacardi, Coke and a twist of lime juice), I spent some time chatting with one of the bar tenders about their work patterns. “During the high periods, we stay open until 1 or 2 am – longer if necessary” he remarked, “But this time of year it’s quieter so we close sooner”.
The guests I saw and met at El Careyes ranged from those in their late twenties and early thirties through to semi-retired or retirees. Most were couples, although not everyone. Some couples brought young children with them; perhaps 18-months to 2 years old. Nationalities were varied; although there seemed to be fewer Americans here and more Europeans – in contrast to many other places in Mexico.
El Tamarindo
A sister resort to El Careyes, El Tamarindo, just 50km south of this property is another luxury retreat. If El Careyes is exclusive, El Tamarindo is ultra-exclusive. Because the village where Marguerite had stayed is en route to El Tamarindo, I stopped by on the way and we looked around the sister resort together for the afternoon and lunched at the restaurant there.
As you turn off Highway 200 at Km7 into the Tamarindo estate, you drive along a 9Km long private driveway; a cobbled road with two parallel grey tiled tracks, set apart enough so your car can glide across smoothly. After 3Km or so, a gate house checks your details and just when you think you’re nearly at the door, you drive along for the last 6Km, downhill towards the coast.
Upon arrival, your car is whisked away by the valet as you walk up some steps to an enormous straw and bamboo roof – the reception area. All around you is a tropical forest; lush green vegetation, flora, birds and butterflies.
Juan from the staff gives us a guided tour of the property. Tamarindo has 29 villas, spread out across the property. You can choose an ocean-view villa, a garden villa (which is completely surrounded by trees and very private), a palm villa or a forest villa. Each one is tastefully decorated and extremely simple and elegant. All villas have a private plunge pool and hammock. They are all identical inside; but for the size of your pool – the ones closer to the beach have larger pools.
The spa building is set in view of the beach. It looks rustic on the outside and has a modern, clean and fresh feel inside. You can have a massage at the Spa or by the beach. I was told that Mexico’s president, Vicente Fox, had a massage here on the beach late last year.
The restaurant is outdoors and enjoys dazzling views across the ocean; its menu is identical to the one at its sister hotel, El Careyes. Built under the shade of a very large and very old tree, it offers the perfect combination of natural light and shade from the intense sun during the day. To the left of the restaurant is the deep blue “infinity” plunge pool.
The property has a series of walkways and trails nestled inside a tropical forest. Each villa is separate and private: You could come here and not see anybody else if you didn't want to. Separate from the hotel/spa and living areas but on the same property is the Tamarindo Golf course; 18 holes including views over the Pacific and one hole on the beach.
El Tamarindo is quiet and tranquil; extremely private and ultra-exclusive. Like El Careyes, it is a luxury experience, but one level higher.
Costalegre – Closing thoughts
As you look out to sea from El Careyes, there is a cliff to the right with a blue house on top. This was the first house ever to be built in this area – about 30 years ago – by an Italian man who, by doing so, set the standard for home design in the area and began a trend that created an influx of wealthy individuals and families who have since bought land and built a home in the area.
These luxury experiences created on the edge of Mexico’s Pacific Costalegre are ideal for people who want a true escape from the routine and complexities of daily life. The design of El Careyes with its horse shoe shape and central amenities creates more of a community spirit there: the focus is around meeting areas, the restaurant, the soft seats, and the smaller intimate beach where people can mingle. Many people have got married here and the property has proven an excellent venue to tie the knot. El Tamarindo has some community areas, but delivers a more private experience for its guests with its individual villas, private settings and enormous, empty beach.
If I needed time to get away from the crowds, to share a special holiday away from it all with my partner or wife, to leave behind the complexities of daily living; If I wanted a get-away that was really special, I would travel to Costalegre where hotels like El Careyes and El Tamarindo set the scene for a worthwhile and unique type of escape. Take a look at the pictures and you'll see why this place is really special.
Manzanillo
About an hour’s drive south from El Tamarindo, we approach the port town of Manzanillo. Although many tourists flock to Manzanillo, the town’s primary industry is trade, through it's large commercial port and docks that are based here. The Mexican Navy also has a major base in Manzanillo with docks and military barracks nearby.
En route to Manzanillo on Highway 200 travelling south, we take a detour to explore a couple of small villages that Marguerite may like to live in for a while. She has found the Costalegre too isolated which makes it impractical, especially since she will not have a car to get her around places.
Our first village stop is at La Manzanilla (not to be confused with Manzanillo) – a small village on the beach, just north of Melaque, the next big town north of Manzanillo. We park near the beach and make a few enquiries about possible apartments for rent. After some searching we find one possible place and take the details in case Marguerite decides to return here after exploring the other areas, and make our way south again. We stop briefly in Melaque; closer to Manzanillo with much better infrastructure than La Manzanilla, but seemingly less character. There are plenty of places to rent, judging by the signs everywhere.
Around 3pm we arrive in Manzanillo at Hotel Club Maeva, an all-inclusive resort situated at the beach about 20Km north of Manzanillo’s historic centre. A tour bus has just arrived and the reception area is bustling with activity, but the queues move quickly, and some staff offer cold drinks to people waiting in line or lingering in the reception area, waiting for the head of their party to check them in.
The property is self-contained; it looks and feels like a small village. It’s an open hotel – each room is made of an apartment-type accommodation with bedroom(s) upstairs and a dining room and living area downstairs. The accommodation is simple, tidy and functional. The accommodation on the upper levels of the resort offers sea views, although it's a longer walk and climb. Buggies travel along a winding driveway to get people and their luggage to the higher levels upon arrival and departure. There is a kitchen for the days when people self-catered; now the kitchens are unused as all the food is provided.
I've noticed that virtually everyone arriving at Club Maeva comes as a family, and that’s because everything at the resort revolves around providing its guests with a traditional all-inclusive, practical and functional family holiday experience, which also enables them to control their budget. I noticed during my visit that there are mostly Mexican families here now; although the resort has been very popular with Canadians too.
Every day, there is a range of organised activities to take part in and they are all free. Activities include bicycle riding, horse riding, snorkelling, windsurfing, water polo, archery, basket-ball, aerobics… There are also 12 tennis courts which are floodlit at night, 3 swimming pools (1 adults only), toboggan slides, a children’s centre (adults not allowed!) and a night club on-site.
If you're looking for an alternative to the all-inclusive experience, Manzanillo offers a range of hotels including Las Hadas Resort & Golf Course, Karmina Palace, Grand Bay Isla Navidad, Hotel Sierra and Hotel Vista Playa de Oro among others.
I arrive on Saturday night and there is a dinner-show taking place. The main square has been converted into an outdoor buffet restaurant with tables and chairs laid out in preparation for the event. About 830pm, the lights come on, dancers take the stage and the music begins. As an intermission, three couples from the audience are invited on stage and are challenged to match the professional dancer’s moves… with highly amusing results! They all get a bottle of wine for being good sports. After the show, I wander around the pool area and bar before heading to the night club.
1130pm and Sophie Ellis-Bextor’s “murder on the dance floor” plus strobe lights give way to soft stage lighting for tonight’s “singles” competition. Six single people are selected from the audience – three girls, three boys. Three games and 45 minutes later, the winning couple walk away with another bottle of wine… which is given to the boy, but which apparently they have to share…
The next morning, Linda, the head of the PR department gives me a tour of the hotel and explains all of the facilities and amenities available. She’s Dutch and speaks English, French and German; she has learned Spanish in the last 3 years since she first arrived here - to a point where it seems faultless when talking with her. Linda now gives Spanish lessons at 10am each morning to guests staying at the hotel, another one of the activities on offer…
There are several restaurants and bars; not all of which are open now because it’s low season, but there are adequate eating and drinking facilities open for now. Drinks; soft and alcoholic are completely free of charge, you just ask for what you want and have as much as you want. All of the meals are buffet and offer a good range for all tastes and styles; meats, vegetables, fresh fruit, water, juice, soft drinks. Cereals and toast are available in the morning; coffee and tea is brought to your table on request. There is also an a la carte Italian restaurant which is also free, but you must book in advance and wear smart-casual clothing.
I suddenly realize that I have not 1 peso in cash on me, so I use the ATM at the hotel to become solvent again, and we drive into Manzanillo’s center. The last time I came here, the town square was very small and simple. In the last year, a brand new square and promenade has appeared; I didn’t recognise the place. A huge metal statue of a Marlin – Manzanillo’s symbol - has been erected, in turquoise and is the centrepiece to the new main square, which hasn’t been inaugurated yet, as work continues to bring the square’s regeneration project to completion.
Most of Manzanillo’s tourism revolves around its resorts and the beaches – which are very good. The town centre regeneration project will undoubtedly bring more people to Manzanillo's town centre in future and not just to its hotels and resorts.