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Mexico Travel Diaries - Leg 11, Part I
La Paz, Todos Santos, Cabo San Lucas, Copper Canyon, and Chihuahua City
La Paz
The two hour flight from Mexico City to La Paz takes off on time and, before I realise it, we are soon over northern Mexico and turning north-west, crossing the Sea of Cortez towards the port city of La Paz in Baja California Sur; the new catamaran ferry from Mazatlan will do the trip across the stretch of sea in 5 hours (it used to take 18 hours before the catamaran); the plane glides across the same distance in less than half an hour.
The land around La Paz is arid and dry: a desert city by a bay in the Sea of Cortez (also known as the Gulf of California) La Paz’ wealth was founded on resources from the sea, especially oysters; although a disease wiped them out about 35 year ago and today, tourism continues to buoy and grow this city which finds itself well connected by air, sea and road.
After reclaiming my baggage, I file through the exit door among a crowd of Mexican people; I am one of the very few foreigners on this flight which has an onward stop to the border town of Tijuana. Out of the corner of my eye I see an immigration official dash towards me. My passage through is politely but effectively blocked. “Where have you come from?” he asks. He also asks me for my tourist card, so I fish out my passport and the cardboard tourist visa it carries. “From England!” he remarks, smiling. He looks at my passport and tourist card, smiles and hands them back. “Welcome to La Paz”, he finishes.
Checks are often done near the border areas, as some people especially those travelling overland from the US, slip through without having paid their US$22 Tourist Fee; when you fly into Mexico from abroad the cost is obscured within your air fare, but when you drive or bus it across one of the land borders, you have to pay separately if you go beyond the 35Km ‘free zone’.
I did not know what to expect to find in La Paz. As the flight landed, all I could see was desert. Getting from the airport into town didn’t take me long in the mini-bus “colectivo” – it’s just 7Km away. As the mini-bus drove through town, I saw the malecon (the promenade) on the left hand side; some men are still making final touches to it; a project to restore the 380-metre walkway is nearing completion.
When I arrive at El Angel Azul, my B&B in La Paz, I am greeted by a big colonial door, painted blue, which makes perfect sense given the name of the house. The property is La Paz’ old courthouse, which has now been beautifully restored by its owner, Esther Amman, a Swiss lady who discovered La Paz when she was on an extended stay in the area caused by her car being wrongly parked (and parading US licence plates), and subsequently being towed away and impounded. It took Esther seven weeks to get the car and all her luggage released, during which time she discovered the hidden charms of La Paz, met some good people here and decided to move back.
The house has been remodelled in typical colonial style, colours and décor. As I walk in, it feels like I’m a favoured guest in someone’s home, not at a B&B or hotel. The reception area doubles as a lounge, where you can choose a book or magazine and sink into one of the comfortable seats. In the courtyard is the landscaped garden; it too has a colonial feel; the trickling fountain and feel of the place make the area a real oasis, even during the hottest hours of the day.
I am anxious to explore the city. Its streets run in a classic grid-style design, the names of the streets bear the names of famous dates and people in Mexico’s history. Three blocks south of the hotel is the main causeway, along which runs the malecon and beyond that the harbour. Land-side on this road is a selection of shops, café’s restaurants and bars, the odd hotel, some office space and a variety of specialist outlets like travel agents, local tour operators and estate agents. The streets in La Paz have the look of streets in a normal, post-Hispanic Mexican town, but the feel is unique.
Life is calm in La Paz. On most occasions, I waited to cross the streets and oncoming cars slowed down or stopped to wave me past. People are friendly, open and have a tranquil aura about them. It’s quiet enough to be pleasant and lively enough not be stale or uneventful. The town square is a tiled garden with benches overseen by trees and bushes to provide a mixture of sun and shade. The fountain shuts down during the hottest hours of the day to prevent the evaporation of the recycled water in this desert climate.
The Cathedral is probably the most unusual I have seen in Mexico: simple and elegant, it does not reflect a true Spanish style, but a more liberated one. On the opposite side of the square is the “Casa de Gobierno”. Unlike its Spanish counterparts in Mexico’s colonial cities, this house has a traditional colonial façade, but no fancy courtyards; the building is quite narrow and the limited spaces inside it serve as a community centre and working civic offices. There are some paintings on the wall, but nothing fancy or breathtaking: La Paz didn’t try to emulate its colonial counterparts: it has a style all its own.
The Angel Azul has three resident pets; Luna the Dog, Alfonso the Rabbit and “Panzon” (Fatty) the Cat. The Rabbit is very personable: each time I walk down the pathway in the garden towards my room, he rushes towards me and circles around my feet, begging for a stroke and a cuddle.
The rooms at the hotel are excellent; spacious, airy and comfortable with nice details like a traditional Mexican throw-over covering the bed sheets. On my pillow is a welcome message signed personally by all of the staff. The street map provided is the most useful and comprehensive one I have seen at a hotel: all of the main practical and cultural attractions are marked on it and Esther has also added a list of her recommended café’s and bars, restaurants; the launderette, an internet café and so on. It’s the perfect tool for getting oriented and finding practical and useful services locally.
On the second day, I wander down to the main street along the sea front where there is a wide range of water sport operators selling packages to tourists and visitors. Although the administration is done from La Paz, most of the water and adventure activities are run out on the nearby island of Espiritu Santo (Holy Spirit); a short boat ride from La Paz. During the summer months, many opearators close shop for a while as it gets too hot for the activities they manage. If you want to take part in some of the fabulous water sports around La Paz, plan to be here between September and the end of April: La Paz bakes in the high summer.
Morning coffee is served from 7am at the Angel Azul B&B; from 8am breakfast follows. It’s served in the fresh and tranquil setting of the gardens, which among a cornucopia of flora and fauna you’ll find 19 different species of cactus: for the curious, a list of their names hangs from a list on one of the walls. I enjoyed sitting in the garden with fresh coffee, writing notes and enjoying the cool morning air, before the heat of the day took over. At 5pm, tea is available from the lounge and the bar opens for a limited time until 7pm.
The Angel Azul has earned a place in the recently published edition of “Best Places” for Baja California Sur – the editors of which visit places anonymously and they assess the establishment from a variety of perspectives. After having stayed here a number of days, I can understand why it has earned a place in this coveted guide.
La Paz is an unusual but interesting town. It has the feel of an authentic Mexican settlement, but is entwined with a tranquil feel unusual for a town of its size and location. It’s not constantly crowded with tourists; prices are realistic and it’s a brilliant base to explore the other interesting southern areas of Baja California. Renting a car would be great idea if you haven’t driven down from the USA and there are plenty of rental agencies around to choose from and compare prices. If you do rent a car (here or anywhere else in Mexico) you’ll get a better deal by going online and booking in advance than by telephoning or calling in personally to an agency outlet.
I enjoyed my stay in La Paz; it exceeded my expectations and I was pleasantly surprised by its laid back and tranquil pace, which is such a refreshing contrast to so many sea-side locations. Some people say that La Paz is boring: it is not. Night life is plentiful for those who want it, and by taking the time to scratch the surface, you find a cornucopia of events, activities and curiosities in this town which has escaped the excesses of its southern neighbours in Los Cabos and retained its authentic Mexican feel. It also provides some of the best value travel you’ll find on Mexico’s Baja California peninsula.
Todos Santos
Maria is one of the guests at the Angel Azul Hotel in La Paz; she originally planned to stay in La Paz for three days and has ended up spending three weeks here; the entire length of her holiday. Her boyfriend, who is an ornithologist and nature enthusiast, has travelled to the north of peninsula to spot some new species; Maria wanted to relax and unwind in La Paz and its surrounds, so they’ll meet up again later.
Maria wanted to visit Todos Santos too, so we caught the 7:30am bus from the Aguila bus station that’s situated off the water front about 3 blocks from the Angel Azul. It takes about an hour and a quarter to get there, and we arrive in time for breakfast at the Café Todos Santos, which serves renowned home baked cinnamon rolls. It’s nice, but very pricey – Coffee and bun and orange juice for 120 pesos per person. We sit outside in the morning sun, and some flies decide that they want to keep us company. I sprayed some of my insect repellent on a paper napkin and laid it on the side of the table. Maria is visibly shocked, “What are you doing?” she asks, without letting me reply she jokes “Putting poison on the table… I’m travelling with a mad Englishman!”. I grinned quietly and replied, “The flies have gone!”.
Todos Santos is primarily a farming town; historically it has served as an agricultural centre for area. Discovered by travellers heading north from Los Cabos, the town is now a chic arts and artists centre; colonial in feel and quietly elegant in places. Although not strictly on the shores of the Pacific Ocean, the town is growing and will one day reach out the extra kilometre or three you need to walk to get to the water’s edge.
The most famous hotel here is the Hotel California; there is a small catalogue of legends and stories about how the popular music band named the Eagles are connected with the town and hotel in various ways, although I’m told it’s all a wheeze. The hotel was bought in recent years as has been beautifully restored: it features a fine restaurant and bar, an artisan outlet and of course offers quality accommodation in the town.
After exploring the centre and its immediate surrounds, Maria and I decide we’ll walk out to the beaches. The lane leading out there runs through some settlements and small suburbs; you keep walking and eventually you arrive at El Pozo, a hotel owned by a Swiss couple which stands on the edge of the waterside. Maria and I stop here for a beer, to rest and chat on the hotel’s appealing terrace that overlooks the Pacific Ocean. Todos Santos' beaches are not ideal for swimming because they face the open sea and the undertow is seriously dangerous for people who are not strong swimmers. Experienced surfers come here to play and Whales can sometimes being seen frolicking in the waters off the shoreline.
There is a huge variety of birds and wildlife in the area: the area is teeming with natural beauty. Although the weather is warm, it doesn’t feel very hot (in the summer this part of the world really bakes) – but the skies are cloudless and I don’t realise it, but I’m quietly burning.
As we begin our walk back to the town, two foreign locals who have been at the El Pozo hotel are just getting into their car and ask if we want a ride back into the town. Given the sun’s relentless heat and the prospect of a long walk back, we agree and hop in to the back of their mini-van. We arrive in the town centre, outside the Hotel California, thank the people for our ride and walk off. Two minutes later I realise that I have left my camera in the mini-van!
After making some local enquiries, contact is made and less than an hour later I am reunited with my camera; which has the Todos Santos pictures on its chip. The advantage of a small town is that you can eventually find someone who knows someone who knows the person you need to find…
Maria has gone off to look inside some of the art galleries in the town, and we meet up again later. We spend about another hour wandering around some local shops and stores before walking back to the main road to catch the bus back from Todos Santos to La Paz. We board the first bus past the town which happens to be a second-class “stop everywhere” ride. It’s comfortable enough; the air-conditioning works if the person sitting next to you will open the window. In the 35+ degree heat of the summer months these buses must be lots of fun indeed.
The skin on my face is not well; I have burned, although it’s not too severe. Back in La Paz, I drop in at the local pharmacy to buy some after sun gel; I have been very lucky this time and was spared serious burns – but only just. I also take an opportunity to buy a hat from a local market. I learned that cream alone won’t save you from the sun in these parts; in the winter and spring, the day appears cool and fresh, but the sun is intense.
Cabo San Lucas
Aguila, the local bus company in the area, runs a regular service from La Paz to Los Cabos and back daily. The buses are air conditioned and you get an assigned seat. There are two roads to Cabo San Lucas: the long road (about 220Km) which runs on the eastern side of the peninsula, and the shorter one (120Km) that runs down the western side past Todos Santos which is the one my bus took. If you’re travelling by bus and want to get there faster, be sure to board the “VC” (Via Corta) and not the “VL” (Via Larga) option.
Just over two and a-quarter hours after leaving La Paz, I arrive in Cabo San Lucas. The bus terminal is on the edge of town, and a “colectivo” taxi (which takes several passengers one trip and drops them off one by one) takes me to Cabo Inn, which is in the centre of town. When I arrive, I find that I have the wrong hotel; four days ago I called from Mexico City to book a room at Club Cabo Inn, which turns out to be on the other edge of town.
When I finally arrive at the out-of-town Club Cabo Inn, I am given the keys to “cabaña” 4, situated by the dusty track alongside the entrance-way; behind the caravan which is parked in front of it (the hotel also caters for RVs and campers).
At USD$45 a night (not including breakfast which is an additional US$5), I consider it to be mid range for Mexico, and although I was not expecting anything fancy here, I was disappointed with the state of the accommodation and more importantly, the service and atmosphere I encountered.
The room is cheese-shaped; as I enter I’m greeted by a little hallway with a bare light bulb hanging from it, leading into a toilet and shower room. The main area of the room provides a single bed and a stainless steel sink unit under a small window that is curtained off. The ceiling fan, which is rusty, doesn’t seem to work and the air conditioning unit blows cold air at me in return for a loud noise. The room is equipped with a small TV and a fridge.
Because the hotel is on the outskirts, it takes me a brisk 20-minute walk to get into the centre of town. Los Cabos is primarily a resort destination: people come here to laze at one of the hotels along the sea-front, to party at one of the many bars and night-clubs along the main road, Avenida Lazaro Cardenas, and of course to take part in one of the two biggest pastimes here: sports fishing and diving / snorkelling.
The town itself is made up of some tarmac streets, off of which are many undeveloped sand streets which kick up dust when cars, bikes or mopeds run along them. You can rent All Terrain Vehicles and mopeds to explore the town and surrounding areas. As I walk around, I can’t help but to feel that Cabo San Lucas seems to be a work in progress: there is still a lot of building work going on here, like the new resort building going up down by the beach; and there are pockets of well developed areas which suddenly give way to an empty field or open patch of land.
There’s no centrepiece in Cabo San Lucas: no town square, no park or gathering centre. Like other resort-only locations of Ixtapa and Cancun, Cabo San Lucas’ infrastructure revolves around the town’s main avenue and the commercial life that thrives along it.
As I take my walk back to the hotel, I pass a football field with a match between two girl’s teams across the road from one of the beach-front resorts. A little further down the road, there is access to the beach, which the local lads are using to play their game. The sand on the beaches here is a golden yellow. There’s a beach bar just getting started for the evening; part of the beach has been roped off by the resort hotel; a sign keeps non-residents at bay; down by the water’s edge, a father helps his son to build a sand castle before the rising tide takes it out to sea.
A Mexican family are enjoying a BBQ on the beach: they have brought along all of the ingredients, beers and soft-drinks to accompany it. It has been mainly overcast today, but warm, and there’s a nice sea breeze blowing in from the ocean; a perfect evening for a family beach BBQ. I ask if I can take a picture; they immediately agree and in return, offer me some freshly cooked food. I enjoy a BBQ taco, thank them and move on while there is still some light left in the evening sky.
The center of Cabo San Lucas is an altar for those that seek sea-side night life. The main boulevard and areas just off the beach are crammed with bars, restaurants and night clubs. Every establishment employs pretty girls and happy-hour drink specials to entice customers through their doors. Where San Jose del Cabo, 30Km down the road, offers a more traditional sea-side setting, Cabo San Lucas is the wild party ticket when the sun goes down.
After checking the bus schedules back from Cabo San Lucas to La Paz, I conclude that the itineraries leave me cutting it fine to get back the airport in La Paz in time for my flight on Monday morning; I have learned that it pays to build-in extra time for things when in Mexico. So I decide to take a bus back to La Paz on Sunday evening and call to book another night at the Angel Azul there.
I arrive back at La Paz and get an early night; tomorrow I fly back to the mainland, to Los Mochis, from where I will board the famous Copper Canyon Train. I have enjoyed my visit to Baja California Sur: for me, La Paz was the highlight: it offered character, charm, a serene atmosphere and great value. Todos Santos lived up to its name as a charming art centre; it had a warm feel to it and when I lost my camera there, the local community advantage was highlighted immediately. “Everything works out in the end” smiled John, the owner of Hotel California in Todos Santos, when he saw me again later on, reunited with my camera.