Guide To Comitan de Dominguez

About Comitan de Dominguez

Comitán and neighbouring San Cristóbal de las Casas and Tuxtla Gutiérrez are in the state of Chiapas, a region east of Oaxaca and south of Villahermosa and which is, without question, among Mexico's most stunning scenic areas; mostly wild and rugged, it is rich in indigenous life and culture.

Chiapas' thickly wooded jungles, mountains and valleys together with its traditional cultures and indigenous roots have kept its look, feel and style very distinct from the rest of Mexico. Although there are some cities, symbols and events here which reveal the area's colonial heritage, the population remains close to its indigenous roots. Life is still lived according to custom and ritual.

Many argue that the natural beauty of this area has no parallel in Mexico; deep green forested valleys, awesome waterfalls and high mountains with deep canyons & gorges, a colossal wealth of flora and fauna and glorious lakes certainly make this area one of Mexico's most unspoilt natural paradises.

Away from the larger towns, Spanish is a second language; people here still retain their indigenous culture and tongue. You'll see a lot of indigenous people going about their everyday life, often wearing their traditional dress. It's important to remember that the people who live here are extremely sensitive to having their photograph taken, so exercise caution in this respect when you visit. See Practical Information for more details.

Comitán de Domínguez is its full name, although it's most often referred to as just Comitán (koh-mee-TAN'), was first settled around 1527 by the Spanish, and is still largely undiscovered by most foreign visitors to Mexico's Chiapas region, who traditionally arrive and explore the region from San Cristóbal de las Casas, 88km (55 miles) north of here.

This has been partly due to the lack of road & tourism infrastructure, although in the last few years progress has been made in both areas and today Comitán is a good base to explore some of Chiapas' most breathtaking natural attractions.

The colonial city is made up of nine neighborhoods; an important reference to the city's ancient name: Balun Canun, which means place of the nine stars. The houses are simple but picturesque, with their painted wood doors, interior courtyard gardens and colonial balconies. The streets themselves are well kept too, and immaculately clean.

Comitán is the last significant place before Mexico's southern border gives way to the Usumacinta River and Guatemala just beyond. Comitán offers its visitors a number of attractive sights inside the city itself, including the beautiful neighborhood of San Caralampio (see details in Key Attractions).

Although San Cristóbal de las Casas is still the epicenter of tourist activity in Chiapas, Comitán has evolved and improved its tourism services, now making it an ideal place to spend a couple of days exploring the southern edge of Chiapas as well as the attractions along Mexico's southern border with Guatemala, most within an hour's drive from here.

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Key Attractions

Colonial Center

Comitán's main plaza (also known as the Zocalo) is an attractive, multi-level mix of benches, trees and art sculptures; there is also a fountain on west side. Immediately off the main square you'll find Church of Santo Domingo, the Casa de la Cultura (House of Culture) as well as the city's main municipal building. It's worth wandering around here and discovering the small shops and boutiques, many selling locally crafted items.

Iglesia de Santo Domingo

This church, situated on the main plaza, was built during the 16th and 17th centuries; its attractions include a neoclassical facade and block tower that reflect Mudejar art. Inside the church is a single level, with two chapels added during later periods. The main one - made of marble - was installed in 1956 to mark the church's 400th anniversary.

San Caralampio

The picturesque neighborhood of San Caralampio, three blocks northwest of the main plaza is a true delight. See Photo Gallery.

Just off its central square featuring trees and a bandstand is the Temple of San Caralampio, built in 1852 to commemorate its patron saint following a cholera epidemic that devastated the local population of Comitán during the 19th century.

Museums

Museum of Dr. Belisario Domínguez - The former home of the Doctor/Martyr after which the town was named can be found one block southeast of the main plaza. This is a typical 19th century house with delightful balconies and gardens which complement the historic architecture of the building. Dr. Belisario was an outspoken senator during the presidency of Victoriano Huerta. After he spoke out against Huerta's record of sponsoring political murders, he was himself murdered. The house has six rooms which give an insight into the life and times of Dr Belisario Domínguez.

Casa de la Cultura (House of Culture), on the southeast corner of the main plaza has a small exhibition of local history and culture, and by walking through it you connect to the Museo Arqueológico de Comitán (Archaeology Museum), which keeps artifacts from the area's local archaeology centers.

To see some paintings created by some of Mexico's leading artists, including Rufino Tamayo, visit the Museo de Arte Hermila Domínguez Castellanos, two blocks southeast of the main plaza; Admirers of good art should also visit the nearby Museo Parador de Santa María (see Nearby Attractions, below).

Look up Comitán in the mainstream Guidebooks for more information about these museums and attractions, or consult the local Tourist Information Office (see Practical Information).

Attractions Closeby

Museo Parador de Santa Maria - An ex-hacienda that was built in the 19th century and left empty after the revolution, suffering serious decay. The property was acquired privately and meticulously restored to its early splendor; today it's a restful hotel/parador, restaurant and museum which keeps some very fine sacred art and sculptures dated between the 16th and 19th centuries (some images of these can be seen in the photo gallery). Just 28km (17 miles) from Comitán, this museum/hotel is surrounded by unspoiled countryside and provides an excellent place to rest, eat and enjoy some fine art. The owners of the property grow their own organic coffee which is served on the premises and can also be purchased to take away.

See Museum/Hotel Photo Gallery.

Archaeological Areas - Tenam Puente and Chinkultic are short drives away - see the respective guides on Mexperience by clicking the green links above.

Lagos de Montebello - a region of lakes in southern Mexico - is just one hour from Comitán. There are over 50 lakes in the area, most of them reflect deep turquoise blue and green. Don't miss this spectacular area when you visit Comitán. Mexperience has published a Complete Guide to Lagos de Montebello as part of our Mexico's Great Outdoors Section.

Amatenango del Valle - On the highway between here and San Cristóbal de las Casas is Amatenango del Valle: it's a small hamlet that is famous for its local potters and pottery. The pottery here is still fired in the traditional way: by building a wood fire around the pieces, not in a kiln. Be sure to stop and see the array of pottery, and more recently, "animalitos" (little animals) on offer (although some of the animal pieces can be quite large too). Prices are very cheap by westernized standards; some pieces are fragile, but they will wrap them carefully for you. Be sure to stop and buy. See the Picture Gallery for Amatenango del Valle.

Local Organized Tours

All of the attractions around Comitán can be enjoyed as part of an organized tour, arranged by one of the local travel agents here or in San Cristóbal. Organized tours give you the benefit of having a local guide (all guides in Mexico are strictly licensed) and be able to ensure that you make the most of your time in the region.

Guidebooks

All of the Mainstream Guidebooks give detailed information about attractions in Tuxtla Gutiérrez. Find a guidebook on the Mexperience Bookshelf!

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Getting There & Around

Getting There

By Air - The closest airport to Comitán is at Tuxtla Gutierrez, the state capital. You can fly to Tuxtla Gutiérrez from Mexico City.

Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for Airlines.

By Bus - You can travel to Tuxtla Gutiérrez on a luxury bus from Mexico City - the trip takes around 10 hours. From there take a local bus direct to Comitán or to San Cristobal de las Casas and connect from there. The bus you take from Tuxtla Gutiérrez may stop at San Cristóbal anyway - check locally.

Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for National Buses.

By Car - Driving to Comitán from Tuxtla Gutiérrez is pretty efficient now, especially as half the journey (to San Cristóbal de las Casas) can be done on a high speed toll road. See additional information about Driving in Mexico and Mexico's Toll Roads on Mexperience - and further advice about driving in Chiapas in the Practical Information, below.

Getting Around

Taxis - Taxis are plentiful in Comitán. They are economical and very good value for money. Your hotel can arrange taxis for you; some post their rates on a board in the lobby; keep in mind that taxis from hotels are often more expensive than street cabs. If you speak Spanish, you will have a distinct advantage and be able to negotiate a better price in these circumstances. Another good reason to Learn Spanish in Mexico.

Rent a Car - The attractions in this region are very accessible by road, and there is plenty to see around Comitán. Renting a car would be a smart option if you're thinking about traveling around this region, as it will give you the freedom and flexibility to see more of the area and its attractions.

See the Mexperience Travel Center for Car Rental in Tuxtla Gutierrez.

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Local Events Calendar

February: Fiesta de San Caralampio - One of the most important festivals here takes place between February 11th and 20th - the festival of San Caralampio - see Key Attractions for information about the temple, food, music, dancing, flowers and local costumes, particularly children dressed in 'little devils' masks are paraded during the week; marking an important and busy time for Comitán.

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Practical Information

Telephone: Connect to the Communications in Mexico Page on Mexperience for full information about keeping in touch and the latest table of national dialing codes.

Exchanging Currency: Banks with ATM machines can be found in the downtown area of Comitán, with several banks and ATMs right off the main plaza. During business hours, banks and the Casas de Cambio will buy traveler's cheques and cash from you as well. Read about currency exchange in Mexperience's Money Section.

Travel Insurance: We recommend that you are adequately covered with travel medical cover and/or travel assistance cover when you are visiting Mexico. Read the Mexperience guide to Travel Insurance in Mexico for full details and links to specialist insurance suppliers.

Internet Access: Internet cafes are commonplace in Mexico - new ones open and old ones close all the time - but you won't have to look too hard to find one downtown and in the main tourist areas.

Safety! Driving in Chiapas: If you are driving independently in this region, using a rental car or your own vehicle, its imperative that you heed some special advice.

It's best to keep off all highways after dark, unless you know them well and have good local knowledge.

The highway from San Cristóbal (or from Comitán) to Palenque (Highway 199) must NOT be traveled on after dark. This road cuts through some extremely remote territory, including in the latter stages, sweltering jungle.

The above also applies to Highway 307 between Palenque and Bonampak / Yaxchilan. Most travelers join others and see these places as part of an organized tour, but there are advantages to driving yourself, and if you do, you must take these additional precautions for your safety.

Military Checkpoints: Expect to pass through at least one, but probably several of these on your road trip through Chiapas. Don't be alarmed, the soldiers may or may not check your car's trunk; they are polite, respectful and can even provide local advice and directions if you need them.

Special Note About Photography: The people in this region do not, as a rule, like photographs taken of them and the things they own. In some of the surrounding villages, it is prohibited to take photographs all together, and those who do not comply can face equipment confiscation, fines and even temporary detention. Ask before you take photographs of people and their possessions; you may be asked to pay a small fee for the privilege. See Also: Photography Etiquette in Mexico

Local Tourist Office: Connect to the Mexperience Travel Center for details of the nearest Tourist Information office.

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Accommodation

• The nearest place to Comitán we have for hotel information about is San Cristobal de las Casas

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Restaurants

El Rincón de las Arracheras. Mexican-International. Boulevard Norte 38. Tel: (971) 6325750

La Cama de Piedra. Mexican-International. Primera Calle Norte Poniente 74. Tel: (971) 6321460

Los Arcos. Seafood. Tercera Calle Norte Poniente 51. Tel: (971) 6323630

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When Night Falls

Locally Hosted Parties - Check with yours and other Local Hotels about public parties they may be hosting during your stay. Traditional Mexican theme night parties are popular with the locals, and there's a chance you could join a really special night out - in a very traditional, local fashion. Hosted parties usually include dinner, dancing, a show and / or live music (usually authentic regional music and dancing) plus all drinks for a fixed fee and are always excellent value for money! Ask at your hotel to find out what is happening locally.

Nightclub Scene - Comitán is a peaceful, laid back colonial city. Night life here is limited and if you are looking for this in particular, San Cristóbal de las Casas will offer a better choice of night spots.

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What to Buy in Comitán de Domínguez

Amatenango del Valle - is a small hamlet famous for its local potters and pottery. The pottery here is still fired in the traditional way: by building a wood fire around the pieces and not in a kiln. Make sure you stop and see the array of pottery, and more recently, "animalitos" (little animals) on offer (although some of the animal pieces can be quite large too). Prices are complete give-away by westernized standards; some pieces are fragile, but they will wrap them carefully for you. Be sure to stop and buy; you'll pick up some fabulous, unique and hand crafted pottery and make a significant contribution to the local indigenous communities.

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Local Climate

At an attitude of nearly 1,6770 meters (5,500 feet) above sea level, Comitán enjoys a temperate climate and clean, mountain air. Evenings can be cool, as can winter months - so pack some warmer clothes in case the weather becomes unsettled; which can happen around here. Rain can also be a feature, so pack a waterproof overcoat and hat.

Live Weather Report:

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